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Thank you - the box will be wall mounted to avoid access problems. Should the box/glands be fire rated too?

Thank you, does that mean that it isn't RCD protected either?

My brother has recently purchased an inverter to run a 3 phase lathe, which has been wired to a 10A C rated RCBO so it's protected. The lathe is plugged directly into the front of inverter at the 415V outlet - does the lathe, or any other machine he decides to use, need to have it's own...

My consumer box is in the utility room which is in the middle of a single storey L shaped barn conversion - the supply for five smoke detectors goes up into the void directly above the utility room and will then go off to linked detectors in five completely different directions. I've run...

Can anyone recommend an exterior paint for windows and doors for bare, untreated softwood frames, one set of patio doors that already have a coat of primer and some hardwood windows. I've read quite a few threads on here, but can't work out whether to go for oil or water based paint. I've...

We've just acquired a range cooker with gas hob for the kitchen that isn't even boarded out yet. We've no natural gas but have checked with supplier who can provide an LPG conversion kit consisting of a new hose and jets. I'll obviously get someone with the relevant qualifications to connect and...

I checked a couple of sockets earlier - the cable earth wires are twisted and sleeved together, but the back box earth is separate.

So is the general consensus that it would be better to fit a radials instead of rings? If I did fit a radial, then I'm guessing that it should start at the socket where we intend to put the kettle - and just hope that we don't change our minds. With the current plan for a ring with three sockets...

It's a bit unfair having a go at the electrician when it was my decision - it's fairly obvious that I don't know much about electrics, but just out of interest, what are the advantages of radial circuits? Other than saving the hassle of fitting the return cable, which isn't a problem in a...

In fairness the electrician did suggest radial circuits, especially for the island unit, but I got a good deal on a number of reels of 2.5mm cable a few years ago and couldn't see the point in forking out for 4mm!

Thanks for all of the advice, the electrician came out last night to talk it all through now that we've finalized the kitchen layout, and I had a much better idea of what he was talking about. The current plan is to put the integrated fridge and freezer units on a separate 2.5mm radial...

I thought you had to be able to isolate the appliance without either having to move it or empty a cupboard to reach the plug.

Sorry for the confusion, but I'm not really up to speed with the jargon - I basically want to avoid having switched fuse connection units above the worktop. We've looked at a lot of very expensive bespoke kitchens and one thing that they have in common is the complete lack of visible switched...

Is there an alternative to fitting switched fused sockets for appliances above the worktop? My electrician has suggested a cable outlet on the ring main mounted a few inches below the worktop at the back of the adjacent cupboard. Then take a spur to a switched fused outlet or standard plug...

Connections checked and everything seems ok. Trying a replacement capacitor would definitely be the easiest option as I don't really fancy removing and dismantling the motor - problems with the centrifugal switch sounds terminal - at this rate it will probably end up on ebay for spares!

Thanks for the replies. I was just wondering if it was more than a worn capacitor due to the random way that it's been starting - I used it for most of this afternoon and at a guess I'd say that it started normally roughly half of the time, occasionally it stuttered before getting going, and...

I've got a small 240v pillar drill with a 550W motor. It's getting on a bit but has been very reliable until recently - every now and then the motor doesn't turn and just hums, spinning the chuck by hand gets it going, but isn't exactly safe. Is this due to a worn capacitor, or will I...

I don't really see that a T&G ceiling in a single storey dwelling fitted with a relevant smoke detector, in a room that's at least 10m from any bedroom is a safety issue, or is adding any further 'risk' - all I wanted to know was whether I need to use furring strips when applying T&G over...

No, the room isn't adjacent to the bedrooms and it's a single storey house, I'm guessing that I'll still have to use intumescent paint though.

Sound proofing isn't really my main concern - I just assumed that I can't fit matchboarding or T&G directly to the counter rafters without first fitting a solid surface. Plasterboard seemed an obvious choice, but I'm not sure if I should create an air gap between the board and T&G If it is...