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Sounds like you had a similar experience to me :D

Thanks, it sounds like I can probably avoid the need for lintels in those areas :). I'm not entirely sure that the cavity would let water run down as it's usually filled with concrete. My DPM should hopefully keep all of the water out (y)

Thanks Woody, I didn't know what to search for. I had a look and the drawings seem to all show blocks on the inner skin, although I'm still not sure what the reason for it is. Thing thing that is making it a little more complicated for me is that I have a pipes going under my large door and a...

I'm building an extension (DIY) and I'm a bit unsure about the inner skin around the door opening. I've gone single skin for the door openings but I've realised that a lot of people seem to have it coming up to around 1 block (225) below FFL. I've attached a picture to show the two options...

I tried tightening after a couple of months and it clicked. If it's like my one then you will need to carefully chisel concrete from under the bricks and then re-concrete and mortar after. Getting the right angle for the fall can be difficult too as you need to get it right before you tighten...

I want to run a pipe to an outside tap but can't decide the best way to do it. I'm building an extension so I have all the options available such as running a pipe under the floor etc. Every option I've thought of has it's drawback so it feels like there should be another option. I currently...

The seal is very compressed but I can't get the ring to click. Any ideas whether this would be a problem? I'm going to put concrete around it anyway (to support the bricks above it etc., so it won't move.

I'm trying to add a Macar bowl inlet to my existing bowl and can't tighten it. Does anybody know whether there's a special/easy way to do it? Turning the outer ring compresses the seal and there are a couple of teeth that click as it turns. I've almost got to the first click but can't move it...

Do you know whether building control will care how it's built?

There will be nothing to contaminate the ground around it. Would the same apply if it was only housing electrical cables? Also the pipe is carrying clean rainwater, and it's on its way to the soakaway, which is right next to the manhole (small gap between them). So, in the worst case scenario it...

I was going to use M6 mortar like I have for other DPC brickwork. Does it really need to be that strong? I'm not sure what water bond is. I want to make sure it isn't water tight as I want water to drain out of it (slowly). It's below the water table level so water will almost certainly get in...

I'm building a brick inspection chamber. I've read some things online that say that they should have a double skin with engineering bricks. I know many are only single skin, like my existing inspection chamber that is built with normal (non-engineering) bricks. Should it be double skin or not...

My structural engineer gave me two documents. One document had everything a builder needs to know (lintel specs, padstone specs, foundation details, etc.) and the other had the calculations. I'm pretty sure there should be some calculations.

It could be that they used to be common around here. They probably used them on all the houses on the streets around here when they were built. The brickwork is pretty awful too :censored:

Thanks, I couldn't work out what it was. I found an inlet and ordered it, but I paid a lot more than the one Hugh posted a link for :(. At least I should be able to get my pipe in there now.

I need to get a 110mm pipe into my existing inspection chamber. It was built in the 80's and there were apparently common around that time. I've removed a blank and chiselled concrete away but I'm just left with a hole in the plastic. The existing pipe has a nice adapter, but I have no idea...

I've been running ducting for a water pipe and electrical cable. I've noticed that water supply pipes should be 350mm away from other services. I'm wondering whether anybody knows why? My ducting are being run side by side going into the foundation. If they weren't side by side then I would...

I'm building an extension and matching the bricks to the existing house. I noticed that ibstock say that the bricks should not be used "below ground level DPC". Their durability is F1 (moderately frost resistant). The existing house was built in the 80's and has the facing bricks going below...

The pipe isn't there yet so I don't need to dig under it. It's also possible to fill the chamber with pea shingle if the pipe needs support. I was also thinking of putting a water pipe and electrical cable through the chamber, but that would be a pain if it was covered in pea shingle.

I am adding a 110mm non-return valve for my soakaway and want to build an inspection chamber for it as it's supposed to be inspected periodically. I looked at plastic options but couldn't see what I needed. Pipes usually stop at inspection chambers but I want this one to pass through, with the...