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BUMP! I'm thinking of doing the breathable membrane first then drilling shallow holes in the Celotex just deep enough to get rid of the foil on both sides as I hear the foam part is actually breathable but not the foil... then screwing it on top of the breathable membrane?

So tape is only used when jointing plasterboards? But for any remedial work use scrim? I read after a Google search that over Artex it's best to scrape any tops and loose bits, do 2 coats of PVA, then a bonding coat to flatten, then PVA (if bonding is left to dry), then multi finish. That blue...

Huh? It went over a joist. No to paper as in waste of time or it will crack in time? Cos if there's a possibility of cracking it has to be pulled off, otherwise forget and move on. Ceiling will be bonded and skimmed eventually (it's Artex).

Yesterday's job was putting an electrical cable into a ceiling. After cutting the access and screwing back on I taped it with orange scrim tape... then some Easy Fill, then paper tape... then some Easy Fill again. Are there any negatives of using mesh AND paper in one application? Would it be...

Hi. Doing the outside of my summer house. Interiors are plasterboard + foil bubble wrap underneath the PB, then rockwool insulated 4x2 frame, then OSB on the outside. Should I use 18mm OSB or double board in 11mm? I'm trying for sound insulation so wondering if the extra 4mm will be worth it...

Yeah with regards to the warm roof... this is a pitched roof outbuilding with a ceiling so technically there is a "warm roof" above so any small sound leaks in the ceiling might get blocked by the pitched roof. I just figured that in this day and age companies would be selling low-profile LED...

Deciding what lights I want in an outbuilding where the ceiling will be stuffed with rockwool. Would it be a fire hazard to have downlights surrounded by rockwool? Even LED ones? I'm trying to get this room sound proof so priority is in the rockwool rather than the lights. Cheers.

I just noticed the outbuilding I'm building walls are side-to-side out of plumb. Meaning that if you stand in front of it from the outside and look straight on both left and right walls lean to the right. I noticed this when I was cutting out the purple sound panel and the top ended up being...

I thought mist coat still allowed the plaster underneath to dry because of how watered down it is? It seems dry now apart from those dark corners... not sure why as if anything I applied less plaster to the corners since I was troweling it away from there :confused:

Cool, how long do you reckon it will be until I can paint it assuming I can keep it at room temp 20deg from here onward? Thanks.

I did the plastering about 2 weeks ago but because it's cold there are still some dark patches in the corners. I put a heater in there yesterday for 20 mins then closed the door for the whole day and that seemed to work but the corners are still dark. Really desperate to move on as I have time...

I mean around the end panels which go down to the concrete.

Why didn't you use 18mm ply? Or like someone else said cut the original floor up and stick the 18mm directly on the joists? 6mm ply is flexible so of course it would just follow the original floor in shape.

Hi. Laminate flooring is going in kitchen around the units. The flooring will be laid just past the plinths. How are the cuts done around the units? For example around the end panels etc...? It's a small kitchen and I really don't wanna leave a stupid size expansion gap at the units - like how...

The framing of my outbuilding I'm working on somehow managed to go off-plumb in the front-to-back direction and to make matters worse the OSB is already on the sides providing a solid unmovable structure in this direction. Would this cause any issues in the future? The front of the outbuilding...

Weather is crazy and my tarp protection seems to be failing as the wood is getting wet. Should I be worrying about it or continue as normal? Also should I rush and order some Tyvek to cover it? Am I rite thinking it's not a good idea to apply any type of water proof paint or oil/primer as this...

Clear OSB at the moment on the internal side. I have an excessive amount of DPM left over. Was wondering if there is anything I can add to the summer house wall before hammering in the insulation board to make the insulating properties a bit better? For example stapling a sheet of DPM to it...

I've only ever done this once which was for a washing machine... switch-less socket under the counter top with a switch in series before the socket: feed --> 20A DP switch --> socket. But what if you have, say, a switch-less socket spurred off a ring on "wall A" and require the switch to be on...

I have a plywood surface which will be Tyvek'd, then battens and render board. Standard size is 25mm battens before screwing render board to them but I'm wondering if I can rip the battens on a table saw to around 10/15mm instead and will that air gap be enough for the plywood etc to breath...

Bump!