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Ahhhhhh thanks for that info John, I just looked up and realised how it works. I'm guessing I'm going to have to find window handles that either span across all 4 holes so that it is covered, or try find similar window handles (which I think is called cockspur handles) in order for it to look...

Thinking of replacing the handles on my windows but because theres existing holes in the window I'd rather keep the new handles in the same position. Except I have never seen these types of screws before? Seems like there's just a hole in the middle, tried an Allen key and nothing seems to bite...

Thanks guys, managed to do it, was abit fiddly but now I've got 3 fixing points. had to put a random screw in there to hold it up whilst I screwed down lol

Also not sure if I should scrape up the existing stuff and start from scratch with the levelling

Mapei 3240 product spec says it can be used on timber. The only concern I have is that will it be too runny that it would just keep leaking down into a tiny crevice before it sets. Shall I make a thicker mix? It's basically the upstairs floorboard leading onto a step tread. It looks like...

Ahhhhhh I gotcha, so in essence it would kind of look like Battens are red and screw positions are blue Wondering if I can use like a plasterboard type fixing whereby it's kind of like a wall plug that opens up once tightened. That would I guess also provide some upward pressure but that'd be...

Ahhhhhh ok I kinda get what you mean. I guess the only requirement for that would mean I only have to cut into / remove the 2 adjoining boards? But then when I think about it in my mind, I kinda need to keep the 2 adjoining boards in place in order to attatch the Crossbatten to? Haha

So abit hard to explain, hence why I included pictures lol I have a floorboard which a random piece of it has snapped off and I'm sure it's because there was no actual support underneath it in the first place. It's an awkward shape and location where it is because it is essentially a full board...

Ahhhhhh ok so considering I have 2 earth's, do I run one to the faceplate and one to the backbox? And then run 1 seperate piece to link together. Or is it just a case of both earth's into the earth on the faceplate and then link the earth from the backbox to the spare earth on the faceplate...

Decided to go for some USB wall sockets which have USB-C and hence the actual depth of the socket itself is alot deeper than than usual and hence will not actually fit into the backbox. I'm not sure exactly what it is that I need but I think it could be something like this that I found online...

Oh, what does 'after diversity' mean if you don't mind me asking. Thank you

Yeah the previous cooker that was there was a gas cooker not electic so I'm not sure if they would've had the adequate cabling required, but I believe that a gas cooker would've used 15amp minimum anyways so that'd be hopeful. but the kitchen was pretty much the original build which was in the...

I'm 99% sure that I will need to upgrade the cabling in my kitchen for the new appliances that we have. The new built-in oven is 3600w max and the microwave is 1250w max, which is 4850w combined. I'm not sure if the cable required is just the maximum required for 1 appliance which would be the...

ive read that with SPC flooring that you cant use a DPM/Vapour barrier more than 1mm thickness due to the possibility of the flooring unhinging if any thicker than 1mm. but everywhere I look (selco, wickes, screwfix) all their underlay/dpm products are 2.5mm thickness

the house was built in the 1970's so i believed that at least some form of DPM was starting to be used at that time. I also checked the external walls and it does seem that there is a damp proof course within the lower bricks but obviously that would be different to a DPM. is there a simple way...

The floor is compromised of the original concrete slab, but then we had to add around 15mm depth of self-levelling to get the floor abit higher and level. we used - https://www.instarmac.co.uk/products/ultratile/levelling-compounds/prolevel-two-flexible-two-part-floor-leveller/ which is a...

The area that I am tiling is inside the bathroom, and then it will transition to carpet as we come out of the door. My tile is around 10mm thick, and will be using a 10mm notched trowel. I know that once you push the tile down it will compress the adhesive and overall thickness will be slightly...

Had a sample pack come in and neither of them seem to be the same/similar to my existing window gasket. Not sure if it might be a specific type. but any help would be appreciated if someone just randomly happens to know. Thank you Window seems to be an old aluminium double-glazed type (if...

also with these boards, which is the best way to fix them to the floorboards if they are to go on the floor and not the walls. ive seen dot n dab used, then also the method using the big circular washers etc. Thanks

ahhhh nice thank you. just saw on wickes that they also sell a 1200 x 800 x 12mm (currently on sale) https://www.wickes.co.uk/NoMorePly-12mm-Fibre-Cement-Construction-Board-1200-x-800mm/p/225437 which is a cement board. works out cheaper per m2 or shall i still with that one you recommended...