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@DAZB @blup I would appreciate a steer on this one too if you wouldn't mind https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/top-newel-post-installation.617959/

I would love a steer on the way to go with this newel installation at the top of the stairs. for anyone wondering, the extra bit of timber attached to the inside of the stringer is how I am offsetting the newel and handrail slightly to avoid new handrail clashing with the landing ceiling. So...

Thanks @DAZB

Thanks mate ye that sounds like what I’m planning! This video is almost exactly what I’m going to try and do! Stop me if you think I’m wrong or please confirm this is what you mean!?

Any reason for this?

My next DIY project is replacing naff cheap late 70s horizontal bannisters for new traditional spindle handrail version You can see the bottom of the stairs and stringer in picture 1 and the newly post I'm getting in picture 2. From the various videos I have watched on the topic I am thinking...

As the OG posting the question and having just cracked on without Bernoulli getting involved I csn Safely says the fan sounds fine, bacon smell evacuateds so I’m happy out

That’s the spirit! that’s what I did anyway thanks

I’ll run with it for now and see how it goes. The bigger size would need a whole new hole in the house!

Hi replacing an integrated cooker extractor hood. The new one wants a 125mm extractor ducting but the old one was 110mm. Am I ok to just reduce down and run with the old ducting. It’s straight out the wall no run on the duct really at all. Will the impact of reducing be severe for this one?

sweep and hoover but occasionally a light mopping. the mopping would be the equivalent of taking a damp tea towel and rubbing the floor. Its not a big sloppy mop or anything

I can try the test with straight edge in the morning but certainly by hand I couldn’t really press the area down at all

So what are my options from here to try and reverse the issue? What steps in what order? I know the last option is to pull up floor up to the issue and replace those planks but I’m hoping for something less than that

the board that goes beneatht the cabinet is unrestricted for many inches. doesnt come close to the wall.

Hi all, I noticed a small area of what looks like swelling in my 12mm laminate flooring. It seems to be getting worse as the weeks have gone on but to my knowledge there has never been any spillage of liquid in this spot for a prolonged period that could have let moisture seep into the...

Thanks lads! Yep I thought as much that getting into the block would be important! I actually removed the skirting behind it because I plan to make it ‘built in’ so it’s relatively flush to wall! I did think about a thinner but of ply as a brace on the wall to screw into and have that wood...

Hi guys, Putting together some IKEA PAX and at the step of fixing the top of it to the wall. The wall in question is a dot and dab wall and I am wondering the best fixing to use. I know corefix is used widely for heavy hanging (kitchen cabinets etc.) but I also know that when fixing wardrobes...

I have to mask all the windows anyway and I have this maskin tape with plastic sheet built in so its very little work to mask off the entire windows. Essentially I have all the windows completely covered now so the prep is done for both options. Just need to decide which route is best. Would...

hi guys. if you could share your reasons for going the brush route id appreciate it. is it more from a waste of paint or finish or what?

so I am painting the interior of conservatory this weekend. Have already sanded back the old stain and wiped down. See the pictures attached I have masked all the windows including glass (because im using integrated masking tape and plastic sheet it was very little extra work to do this) My...