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House is 1930's so presumably in this instance i can go for either soil pipe or normal down pipe? Just my neighbour said washing machine waste and bath waste should be going to soil pipe although they are closest to normal down pipe..

Sounds good to dot dab reveals thanks trowelmonkey. 1. Is this done this all way round the window (4 sides) and thin coat beads when undercoat is on? 2. Is it ok to mix 25kg bag hardwall all at once and presumably no other additives are used other than water? 3. I take it you should use...

Do i fill between the floor joists with rigid insulation jablite which is the same depth as the joist (100mm) making it flush with underside of ply floor, or do i need to leave some sort of an air gap?

My kitchen is a mix of block and normal house brick with soft lime mortar joints. I'd prefer all walls to be solid rendered rather than dot dat especially on wall unit side. As i'm no expert but have reasonably adequate plastering skill (with sand/cement only) i was going to go for the battens...

Apologies for posting this thread 3 times -computer playing up!!

I shortly need to plumb in the whole bathroom and kitchen area. Is it ok to send shower/sink waste into soil stack(will be new stack)) and bath waste into normal downpipe (as before)? Similarly the washing machine/kitchen sink waste into soil pipe. Does it really matter which waste goes to which...

My kitchen floor joists are 100mmx75mm.I'm in process of putting 25mm ply down as it will be tiled over...Is it worth me putting insulation between joists as now would be easy to do? I was thinking rigid foil backed same depth size (100mm) with nails tapped below sideways into joist to keep them...

Thanks big-all. nice detailed solution although i'm now doing it differently. I've pulled floor up and am in process of levelling joists individually which seems to be working. I'm loosening mortar above and around joist end and using acrow prop to lift them each then pack under.had to lift some...

I'm thinking of putting up a sink with semi pedestal and hiding the copper water pipes and plastic waste pipe. The wall is an old style partition wall(between bathroom and bedroom) where the bricks are built resting on their sides therefore about 3in thick + plaster. I will probably dot/dab...

do i need noggins at board ends between joists along the wall edge, as these will be a potential weak point?

My upstairs bathroom floor joists slope downwards about 15mm across a 6ft span. As ive taken off floor boards ready for new ply, is it worth me bothering to level the joists. I say this as i will be putting in a shower tray which i thought was supposed to be placed on a level surface for water...

I'm replacing bathroom floor and putting down 25mm WBP ply 8x4ft sheets for tiling on. Bathroom size going across the joists is 10ft, going with joists 6ft. Is it best to lay ply across the joists (stronger) hence noggins where the sheets meet or can i get away going with the joist and no...

My kitchen is 6.7m long x 1.9m wide and i'm replacing tongue/groove flooring with 25mm ply. Can i fix the long edge of the ply in the same direction as the floor joist and so on meeting half on joist, or is it best to go across ways to the floor joist which will mean adding noggins where ply...

What's the minimum thickness WBP ply i can use over the existing 22mm tongue/groove? I need to tile bathroom floor but not have too big a step-up into it from the landing.

If they did come round pre installation to do a spot check, all i would say is i've ripped old heating boiler out which is the truth(may have been g rated anyway). Worst scenario is they (EST) decline voucher i suppose. If spot check post installation then no problem as job will be done...I've...

I've recently bought a house and taken out the old boiler/radiators(already thrown out). I've had a quote £3500 for new A rated boiler/rads etc. Is it possible for me to receive the £400 government scrappage?. Do i simply fill out the online application form saying i have a G rated 'working'...

I've fitted celotex between roof rafters, foam filled slight gaps then aluminium foil taped all edges and over rafters. Do i still need to buy the foil backed plasterboard for the ceiling (to act as the vapour barrier) or surely i've done enough and can now use ordinary plasterboard? Its in a...

I've decided to use an over fascia vent as in bottom middle pic. The gap at head of roof joining against main wall is only about 1inch..(1)-Will this be sufficient to let airflow out, and is the gap simply left as a gap or is there some type of special vent slotted in here also? Also, i...

Yeah trowelmonkey thanks 4 info,there is a room above half the kitchen so this needs to be fireboard but other half is pitched roof. I know moisture board is more pricey but thinking it was best as high moisture content within kitchen area. Didn't realise i could tile straight onto plasterboard...

The boarded roof is already felted and counterbattened so have only the thickness of the counterbatten if i was to put insulation above the roof. If i carry on with the cold roof scenario and not vent anywhere do i have to completely fill the depth of the rafters internally ie.150mm with...