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Thanks all for assistance. The current situation is that there is nothing holding a 45 degree bank, which itself sits atop a retaining wall. I am cutting the ground back 2 meters, and therefore the footing of the new wall will be will be square to the ground level, with a 30 deg shear line...

Sorry - forgot to ask. What size gap should I leave for an expansion joint for say each 7m of wall? Would you recommend dowelling it, or would an expansion joint compound suffice? If so, any recommendations on the best product?

Many thanks middleagedun. Would like to have avoided pillars if possible - may well place one internal at the back of the wall, rather than buttressing at the front - I would think it would probably work, especially if tied in with a bit of steel. I will be re-inforcing the foundation, and...

I am building a 22m long retaining wall from 9" hollow block, which will be reinforced with steel hooked into a reinforced foundation. My question is, at what centres do I need to insert 12mm re-bar? I had estimated about 1 every metre - is this sufficient? second question - Wall will be...

Not quite as easy as you think. This work was done by a so-called HETAS qualified engineer. But I was not happy with the vent positioned after both isolating valves, and an inadequate expansion tank, noisy radiators and frequent ingress of air. So one ting I do not do are bodge jobs...

Just converted an open-vent CH system into a closed system, and split into two zones whilst I was at it. Currently, when just one zone is on, the radiators on the other zone start heating up - this is due to the first rad in the second zone being pressurised by its return pipe - this then...

Richard, thank you. THere are some bits of hep that I would remove, otherwise all joints will be copper soldered. THe boiler has a variable thermostat, and clearly i would fit a pressure safety valve. I suppose the question is - most closed system boilers are fitted with an expansion vessel -...

I have a very badly installed (apparently by a HETAS qualified engineer!) oil fired central heating system. In order to resolve the problem with the vent for the system coming off the return, and travelling most of the way around the house, I would like to convert the system into a sealed...

Kirkgas - problem is, how to fix it? I could connect vent to CH supply, but it would be after the valve, and also the pump - result is same. I could move the valve for the CH right up to the point where the vent ( lazy plumbing - couldnt be bothered to re-route radiator feeds) is, but then I...

I have just bought a new house, and the person who installed a new boiler some time ago took the easy route, connecting to the exisiitng pipework despite it making the pipe runs hugely long. The system seems to work - standard open vent system, with oil boiler. However, the boiler vent and the...

I beleive I already have three seperate phases available. Whilst all three go to the meter, they then go to seperate distribtuion points, before being fed to the board. Can I simply unpick the boards, and connect three sepearate distribution units, one on each phase?

the electrics are stareting to become clearer! THe board that wasnt in use is for the original storage heaters - each one connected directly to its own breaker in the board! THis is controlled by a MEM Autoline connector controller (42ALCFP) , which is, I think, controlled from the time switch...

To answer the first question - I point out that there is a neutral to assist in identifying that it is not a balanced industrial supply - which may or may not have a neutral, depending on how balanced it actually is. I am not sure why the property has three phase. However, we are at the top...

I have just moved into a new property, which is supplied with all three phases, to what looks like a distinctly industrial board - no RCD, just breakers. I think it was rewired by a DIY sparks about 26 years ago! The incomiong supply is PME, but no attempt has been made to do any form of load...

Cant see anything wrong with the pipework. Zone valves on each supply leg, but common return. The only way to stop this would have been to have had seperate returns all the way back to the boiler - neither practical nor economic, surely?

I have installed a four zone system, but I have made what appears to be a school boy error. Basincally, I have three CH zones, upstairs, downstairs and conservatory, and a DHW zone, all connecting back to a common return. However, when the downstairs CH is selected, the upstairs rads slowly come...

not sure that will work - it is the filler that appears to be the problem. Essentially, poor design, but too late now. It is the water pressure that is the problem - at best, I have about .25 bar. given that the bath is so big, it simply takes too long without a pump - but seems I need to pump...

I have a spare twin impellor, but my concern is that if only one tap is running, the other impeller will be attempting to pump to nowhere. I am sure this will damage the pump - or at the very least shorten its life. Anyone tried this before?

Oops! Fitted pump to hot supply, works brilliantly - but now hot is higher pressure than cold, even on lowest setting, so forcing hot water back up into loft tank! Question - I can fit a check valve to cold feed, but is this sufficient to prevent pumped water pressure? Also, what is the...

Took a lazy short cut, and may now be paying the price. Just tiled bathroom floor with beautiful porcelain tiles. Advice from tile shop was to use flexible adhesive for wood, rather than special porcelain glue (seemed sensible, since it was going onto ply. ) unibonded the ply, and laid...