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Ha! Yeah. Still got there in the end. I will see if I can get someone out to give it a check over. Thanks

Thanks guys, I turned the stat on the boiler down to 1 and the boiler cut off. Turned it back up and it came on. So that appears to work. What would you expect the stat to be set at? Maybe I should turn it down to 1.5?? What is the RGI? How much we looking at to replace? Cheers

This has been a problem for some time now. My radiators are red hot - cant even touch them they are so hot. My boiler is a Glow Worm Space Saver 50-60 and is currently set on just over 2 so not high at all. My hot water also gets very very hot. Have replaced the thermostst on the hot...

Like the idea - not thought about that. However the tiles are plain whites and quite thin. Think if I did take anything of thickness they would be quite brittle.

I have fitted a new shower tray which has the raised tiling lip around the edge. The new shower tray is fitted butted up against the new/existing walls. Yes I know I should have recessed it into the wall. Anyhow what I am after is a sealing trim that I can fit under the bottom row of tiles to...

I have fitted a new shower tray with a raised tiling upstand around the edges. As this has been fitted up against the shower cubicle walls I reckon that if I tile over the lip the botton row of tiles will kick in slightly. I was looking for some kind of trim to insert behind the tiles...

I like your thinking Richard - think I will try and seal them anyway it cant hurt things. I couldnt bring the wall plates any further out as the elbow would foul the aquapanel. As for the tighter fit - it was hard enough getting it all to fit with these size holes!

Cheers feel a little happier now. I have left the back of the wall un-boarded so at least I can see if the leak.

Maybe pics are a bit deceiving there is loads of thread. Tiles are just plain whites prob about 6mm thick. I will put plenty of ptfe on - just doesnt sound right. Much rather something with a spanner on it!

I have bought 4 body jets from Bath World. These are the screw in type (see pic). These will be fed by a 3 bar pump. I am a bit worried about getting these to seal properley. You can only screw them in by hand. Obviosly I need to complete shower walls AND tile before I can fit them and test...

:shock: That doesnt sound good.

Can anybody recommend a supplier for upvc windows. The ones I am after are brown outside but white inside - struggling to find anyone. Cheers

I have not managed to find a magnet so need to buy one tomorrow. I have however carried out another test. When I remove the 2 inlets to the processor in the loft I get a good flow from the cold but nothing from the hot. When I turn on the shower the lights on the shower unit flash...

I was given the aqualisa of my dad who bought it and never fitted it. They are quite expensive so took tthe oppurtunity. I spoke with aqualisa who said it would be fine to use with a separate pump. No the pump isnt kicking in.

The pump is a "positive duty" type. Reading the literature it says there should be at least 100mm head between tank and highest part of pipework (in my case shower processor). Maybe I need to lower the processor to get more head??

Cheers Chris for reply. I hope to god its not the pump spec. Did quite a bit of research on here re pump type and was assured the monsoon was the way to go. Its a 3bar twin. These things arent cheap. Will try and get hold of a magnet and try the test. Where do I wave it?

Finally finished plumbing in my new shower. Aqualisa Axis Digital Shower Stuart Turner Monsoon 3bar pump Big switch on tonight and not a drop out of the shower. Maybe an air lock problem but this is what I have done. Shower pump sits in airing cupboard at base of hot water tank...

Never really thought about it as a plugged in extension. Thats basically what was there before. I was just thinking it should be something better.