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Ta breezer. The ones I have since seen look and feel more like slate (though are porcelain) with a rough not glazed finish. I'll go back to the shop, throw a bucket of water on said floor display and see how many customers slip. If only one in ten fall over and hurt themselves I'll probably...

Utopia do some www.utopiagroup.com. The solid worktop range is expensive and bespoke, but great. Thinner panels are available for splashbacks. They also do a much cheaper laminate range which is like kitchen worktop but thinner and for bathrooms.

Does anyone have any advice/experience on laying floor tiles outdoors? I have a small well sheltered courtyard and fancy doing something a bit different than slabs, setts, gravel, etc. I will be laying a concrete screed atop the current concrete slab to give the required rainwater fall...

Masona.. thank you very much for the detailed response. I bow to your experience as, unlike you, I have not ever worked with roofs before. I will take your advice and ventilate! What you say makes sense. My house is an old victorian house with no insulation and very good ventilaiton in the...

Thanks masona (and for taking the time to include the picture). Always good to have a reply from masona - I think most here would agree. For the interest of discussion - if you have the time - I came across instructions from insulation manufacturers (referenced at the end) for a cold...

Thanks masona ;) I didn't realise you could ventilate the warm side of the insulation. I thought the whole point was to ventilate the cold side. (Or have I misunderstood what you meant by "the back"?)

I was after a warm pitched (lean-to) roof. But the cost of the insulation boards and breather membrane are just too expensive when all I need to cover is about 4 sqm of roof. Then I found Screwfix's "Pitch Roofing Insulation" which are 105x400x1200mm insulation boards with integral water...

Thanks for the info timmyquick

Thanks Julio I have an adapter from Wavin and the instructions direct me to use mastic, gaskin and mortar. Would not have been required if I was connecting to a spigot/plain end, but I am connecting to a clay socket. The instructions are at the following url...

Anyone know what tarred gaskin is and where to get hold of it from? I need to connect underground plastic drainage pipe to an old clay pipe via an adapter which requires caulking the joint using the olde worlde gaskin method.

Thank you very much for sharing your experience and knowledge masona. It all makes sense :D

Is it sufficient to insert the DPM from the internal floor slab into the internal section of a cavity wall to form the DPC; or is a separate DPC strip required in addition to the DPM? If so (i) WHY and (ii) does it matter if the DPM sits atop or beneath the DPC? Thanks

I need to shift a gully a metre from where it is now and slightly reroute the underground drain pipes in my yard. The old drain pipes are socketed clay pipes with rigid mortar joints. I intend to replace the pipes with uPVC and fit a new gully. I need to join the new uPVC section to the...

I guess adding another downpipe essentially doubles the flow capacity of that section. So right on. If I have any problems I guess I could add another downpipe somewhere too. Thanks.

The man from Geberit (www.geberit.co.uk) says NO! Length of guttering does not appear to be part of the equation after all when it comes to determining flow capacity. The guttering is just there to transfer the water collected from the roof to the all important downpipe, regardless of the...

Thanks guys. I am inching forward but I am still unsure of one thing. If I look at required flow capacity using the 75mm/hr constant, the required flow capacity of the main roof is 0.75litres/sec. The capacity of the lower extension roof onto which the main roof currently drains is...

Hey there. Wondering if you have any rules of thumb / methods of determining required gutter size for a lower smaller roof that has to cope with the rainwater from a higher larger roof as well as its own? My main roof (one 'pitch') is about 33sqm, being 10.5m wide. It has standard 112mm half...

[I am not a builder but..] If you have damp coming up though your floor -- rather than it having got under the old tiles from the top -- then it suggests your damp proofing could have been compromised. You haven't driven a tank through the kitchen recently have you.. say during a wild party...

Self-Levelling cement is expensive so yes I think this is your best bet! This is something I have done a long time ago when 'patching' an existing floor prior to laying down kitchen vinyl. However concrete/cement can be prone to coming away if laid on too thinly so I would check to see if...

Well it is a thought Mr TexMex. Though do I really want the first ever stone wall I build to be part of a load bearing wall... methinks not :shock: However I'll muse on it as I dig the foundation trench. Cheers. PS Your joke made me hoot (or was that an owl?).