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As there is a 5mm (ish) gap between the underside of the deck and the Tarmac at the highest point of the Tarmac.

I guess I'd still have to dig out a trench for each joist with these.

I'm planning a decked area which is to sit over some sloped Tarmac. I want the finshed floor level of the deck to be roughly the same as the Tarmac at the point the decking starts and to then be level as the Tarmac slopes away underneath. I was thinking of digging out trenches for 4x2 joists to...

If the current lovely weather holds up, I'm looking to fibreglass a flat roof at the end of the week. I've done a couple before with good results. I've always prepped all the OSB boards and flashings the day before and then removed them overnight to keep them bone dry. This is highly...

Thanks Doggit, strong boys is the plan. My good mate has just moved locally and his new squeeze is an amazing physio. I'm now fixed in record time in exchange for a bunch of flowers and a couple of days building work in their new house. Boom!

Thanks tomfe, I knew I'd seen it done somewhere! The 'more expensive' bit has made the decision for me. Now to find someone to swing the sledge hammer.

The wall is 4 inch think single skin and the opening can be what ever is best for the blocks. I'm confident about the quality of the original build as an adjacent wall was what has caused me to spend a week flat on my back! Idea was to cut a 10 mm groove along the mortar line and slip the flange...

A few times yeah, the normal way. Just done my back in so can't work and the brain is busy trying to not be bored. Just thought it looked possible

I agree. Cement board first, shower try butted up to the board and silicone around to make a completely waterproof seal before tiling

am I being daft or could I insert a brick lintel (or an L section lintel, or a Catnic ANG lintel, whatever they're called) into a block wall then remove the blocks to form the doorway? Seems a bit easier than the usual Acroprop, knock out, dance around props, install concrete lintel, etc etc....

I recon a few screws through the joists into a wall plate would be the way to attach but will be happy to be corrected

Did the Catnic thing but they didn't have a solution for a single block wall with that span.

Thanks John, never thought of the window bracket option. Must have killed that brain cell... Lateral restraint to the beam will be provided by the roof joists tying everything to the existing garage wall right? Stops it toppling over. Or am I misunderstanding this bit?

Dearest experts, We're undergoing a garage conversion at home and the boss lady would like a 5m bifold door in one of the existing walls of an old oil tank room (lean to on the main garage) The wall is single skin, 4 inch concrete block construction holding up a flat fibreglass roof (which...

Thanks guys. Plan aborted, we're going to go with timber instead

We're thinking of cladding the walls of a new annex in Antracite coloured box profile metal sheeting. The thought that woke me up this morning was 'will it get too hot?' One of the walls is south facing in a little sun-trap corner which we plan to use as a small garden area and my concern is...

Tech support said use Bondit which is basically pva with sand in it to prove a key. So I went for the 'if in doubt, PVA it' approach.

Cheers OSH, I'm glad I'm not the only one that's pondering. I've found a tech support number for the product so will ask them and let you know.

I'm about to use one-coat over painted walls in an effort to make them nice and flat instead of horridly all over the place (old style internal rendering). Do I need to pva before I use the one-coat like I would with multil? The instructions on the bag don't mention it. I'm hoping not but...

I'm about to use one-coat over painted walls in an effort to make them nice and flat instead of horridly all over the place. Do I need to pva before I use the one-coat like I would with multil? The instructions on the bag don't mention it. I'm hoping not but expect I do