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hi rach, your right, the floor must be dust free and the usual preparation would be a wash coat of 3mm latex screed. I wouldn't use a traditional linoleum in a conservatory as it won't stand up to the extremes in temperature. Its safer to use an epoxy adhesive for any vinyl flooring for the...

There is no reason why you should lift the tiles. You should latex screed over them and plywood over the floorboards, marrying in the two surfaces with more latex screed. More to the point there is no reason why you should be worrying about this if your paying a 'professional' to lay the...

If it isn't too great a slope Dan then I would build up terraces of 4 or 6mm construction grade plywood. One large piece of 4mm ply to cover the entire lower area, then gradually smaller pieces laid on top receeding into the corner. Then apply a latex screed over it to smooth it all out. Then...

if you want a covering on the stair to deaden the noise you could use a rubber or acoustic backed vinyl floorcovering. these can't be folded over the stair so you would also have to use a metal or rubber nosing fixed to the leading edge of each step to take the wear. Unfortunately this would...

re the above post some semi-flexible tiles which would meet the specification can be seen at: http://www.marleyfloors.com/scripts/cgiip.exe/floorcovering/product.r?s0l=Product%20Range&s0=3&s3=22&group=22

for my money a vinylised floor tile is best. The type that snaps when you try to bend it...I don't think this site allows you to name names :roll: They look good, better than a painted floor, and they provide a warmer surface than ceramic or quarry tiles and don't crack if you drop a spanner...

Hi Marc, if it is old linoleum or vinyl then its probably an acrylic or cement bond adhesive...neither of which should not react with your new adhesive. But just to be on the safe side you might be better applying a skim coat of latex screed ( or lay 4mm construction grade plywood if its a...

need more info Bongo. If its a concave curved step then a pvc nosing might be coaxed around it with some heat. Otherwise you have to make a template and send it to the manufacturer for an aluminium nosing. there are a few manufacturers of pvc and aluminium nosings and their products can be...

you need a carpet kicker...or a carpet fitter. But if its a wool mix carpet then it may have actually shrunk slightly in the flood...then you need your insurance.

you could maybe try throwing down fine, clean saw-dust. the local sawmills might supply you with some...or you could saw up some scraps of wood, then try a small area first to see how it goes.

probably best to level up, if you try to dig out the fireplace you'll probably go down an inch or so and then be left with a deep fill in. If the floorboards are a bit dodgy you could put down 4mm plywood or hardboard.

Probably the cheapest option is vinylised floor tiles, the kind that snap when you bend them. They are fairly cheap, very tough, and stable on damp subfloors ( does the garage have a d.p.m.?) If you lay them with an asphalt tile adhesive this acts to an extent as a d.p.m. I laid my garage 15...

Hi Colin, You should check if it is asphalt for sure and maybe do a little digging. If it is asphalt I would definitely stay clear of underfloor heating. Asphalt is very unstable or heat sensitive and your panels and even the units or furniture standing on it could sink into it if it is...

Hi Dab, Hardboard should be laid rough side up. The rough surface provides a better key for the adhesive. Its also softer so when you run a scraper along the joints once laid it will take away any roughness. Most important you should nail with 1" annullar / serrated ringnails and if you lay...

The builder should have installed a DPM under your concrete. The self-levelling screed is then laid deirectly onto the concrete subfloor (after priming etc.. In a large conservatory its best to drop an accurate line down the centre of the room, align your first line of planks on this and fix...

Mike in a 3X3 room you should be able to start by fitting a tile into a corner of the room and continue running the tiles out along and against the skirtings of the two walls (assuming the walls are square). In other words just use the walls as your straight edge. As far as the joints are...

There is a type of metal threshold strip called 'Z-Frame' which you should be able to get at any contract/industrial flooring supplier. I think it comes in 9mm and 14mm so if your laminate is 8mm then get the 9mm Z-Frame. It is shaped like a capital I, you fit it in between the laminate and...

Hi spenc, Ideally you should put hardboard (laid rough side up) or 4mm plywood on the floor. If you can't do that then fill in the gaps with a filler and then apply a scrape on coat of latex screed, mix it to produce a thick mix and then scrape it along the length of the boards with a trowel...

You'll never get all of it scraped up, just apply a thin coat of latex screed or lay plywood over it to give you a fresh start.

Vinyl flooring needs a good solid base to fix onto so you can't really introduce an insulating layer. The only thing you can do is put down a timber subfloor onto the concrete but this would mean raising the height of your floor. You could use an acoustic backed vinyl or a domestic cushioned...