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We are having a standalone garden deck built 4.5m long, 3.5m wide. The frame has been constructed as follows. There are 100x100 posts. Joists from treated C24 '4x2' and 450mm spacing with noggins are screwed together and to the posts (no bearers). I have drawn it as below. I thought that...

I have a house built in 2013, where the floor construction is beam and block, approx 120mm PIR insulation and then about 60mm screed on top. In preparation for replacing the hall carpet with engineered wood, I have cleared the old carpet and underlay away and uncovered two possible issues...

I will be fitting an engineered wood floor soon. I am keeping some adjacent rooms carpeted and will buy the wood-to-carpet threshold pieces made from solid wood that have the T-ish shapes but are chosen for the relative wood and carpet height, which will allow for the wood expansion and hide...

Hello, I currently just have radiators for heating with an S Plan Plus setup (separate zone valves for downstairs and upstairs, plus valve for hot water cylinder, plus summer circuit for towel rads receiving heat whenever one of the other three call for heat). Boiler is a Potterton Promax SL...

I'm planning on fitting an engineered wood floor to my living room and hall but have some questions. The living room is 3.1m wide (and 7.3m long) and the 180-190mm wide boards look like they would suit it well. However, the hall has varying width, between 0.85m and 1.22m wide and 4.9m long...

My existing system is an S-Plan. While having a lot of CH pipework changed, I am having the bathroom radiator removed from the heating zone and onto its own summer circuit, essentially a third zone but without a valve. Then, whenever either the heating or hot water are being pumped, the rad...

I have a 1970s house with a fairly normal S-Plan setup. There are three bedroom radiators and one bathroom upstairs, fed from the floor void. Downstairs are another four rads (lounge x2, hall, kitchen) with pipes buried in the solid floor. Heating control is by a programmable room stat in the...

I have a CM67 that makes a loud 'tock' as the relay switches on or off. The similar unit at the Premier TravelInn I recently stayed at made a similar noise on switching but maybe a bit less echo. Does the CM67RF or newer CM927 equivalent have silent operation at the user control since the...

Not the most exciting topic or one spending much time debating over when it only costs in the region of £10 - £15, but any recommendations for a decent quality kit? The one in B&Q doesn't have an anti-backdraft flap and the Screwfix one is grey (I would like one in white). It will be on a...

Sorry for yet another 'my RCD has tripped' thread, but I have not found this through searching. Since having by electrics upgraded a couple of months ago to include RCD protection on the sockets side, I have had a couple of rogue trips. It could have been the dishwasher (new) or tumble drier...

My everlasting kitchen refit is at the tap fitting stage. I have bought a Blanco tap and following the instructions to fit it seems reasonable, although we haven't started it yet. I have a few questions on the specifics of fitting for which any advice would be appreciated. The kit comes...

I know that I will need battens on the wall behind the oven and diswasher, plus behind/around the sink unit to support the new tops. The cabinets are already fitted and with adjustment such as through the legs they are as good as perfectly level. The problem I have is that my walls are made...

As part of my my long-running kitchen refurb, new plasterboard is going up (the old stuff is already down to help the electrcian). I will also be having flat channel ducting at ceiling height across a third of the length of the room for the cooker hood. I have bought 220x90mm ducting to give...

I will be putting in 6 x 50mm individual halogen downlighters, each with 35w bulbs and switched by a single MK 'LV' dimmer. The general consensus on this forum is to have more than one transformer in case of failure of one. I plan to have two as I cannot see the benefit of having one for...

I have these roof tiles made by Marley It seems the best way to duct the cooker hood out is through the roof. The hood is not mounted on an external wall and I don't think the wall-hung tiles would be easy to go through (straight up through the roof is an easier less bendy route anyway)...

One electrician giving a quote picked up that my bonding is on the wrong side but no others did. I know it should be on the customer's side but can anyone tell which side that would be from the arrangement in the picture? Both my pipe and the supply pipe come out of the solid floor so I...

In a situation with two 2.5mm T&E cables entering a 25mm back box for a ring socket: How much grey sheath should be visible beyond the grommet (although depends on which entry hole is used)? What length of exposed red and black (or brown & blue) insulation should there be? Do you fold half...

In fine tuning the cosmetic design side of my kitchen install, I'm unsure which cooker switch to go for. The existing cooker circuit has a 32A MCB and is wired in 4mm2 T&E. The existing set up has a cooker control unit with socket, then a nice capped diagonal :shock: run to the cooker outlet...

From reading plenty of posts on here and seeing material elsewhere, as far as I am aware, my kitchen is not a special location for Part P purposes. I'm not having a bath, shower, sauna or swimming pool fitted in there. However, the NIC domestic installer I had in for a estimate yesterday...

Is there a requirement for a domestic install to have one master switch for the installation? If I had a second consumer unit added above the existing one, due to lack of space for anything wider, would it be valid just to have their respective main switches? The second CU would be for RCD...