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Thanks, I think that seems to have sorted it after some initial testing.

Isn't the backplace from Wiser identical? It's the same as far as I can tell. I queried about this link between L and terminal 1 and that is only when the boiler is 24V apparently?

I have purchased a Wiser smart home kit. I've removed my old Drayton dial and simply mounted the hub. It turns on fine and connects to the radiator smart values with no issue, however, when adjusting the temperature in the rooms, it didn't seem to call for heat from the boiler - the boiler...

Is it possible to put the laminate floor on top of the celotex boards with the use of underlay? Can we do without the tongue and groove OSB boarding?

Almost all videos I have seen where contractors have done work have used t&g boarding. Kingspan technical have also advised 18mm as a minimum ontop of their foil faced boards. The movement document is the natural.expansion and contraction over the seasons where the perimeter gap widens and...

Our detached garage that is being converted is at the stage of having its floor built. We understand that from our research it's a DPM, foil faced insulation (we can only do 25mm due to height), tongue and groove OSB, underlay and then laminate floor. My research shows that the OSB will move...

I've seen some of the hollow ones which appear to be more common, but somehow they are remarkably expensive for what they are. Almost £40 for a 2m length with a 400mm profile. I imagine the metal core ones are significantly more. It's a case of trying to balance cost with practicality. No the...

We're in the middle of a garage conversion and we're filling in the single door and the garage large door. We've sourced a second hand large double patio door which is 1780 wide whereas our opening is about 2178. It's about 200 either side. I know there are frame add-ons and extenders to...

I depressurised the boiler earlier this week, the needle went back into the green zone, and the pipe outside stopped weeping. 2 days later, the needle is gradually creeping back out of the green zone very slowly. By the end of the week I will have to depressurise again. Does this help narrow...

Thanks, I have since released the pressure, but have noticed it climbing again. Are there any possible reasons for why it might be repeatedly becoming over pressurised? I think the valve is working correctly by letting the excess water out

I have attached photos of a copper pipe which has an opening that constantly drips water (I think). The white one below is the condense outlet, but i don't know what the one pictured is for. Is there a problem with the boiler that it is constantly outputting water that is leaking onto the floor...

If we add more insulation it will become too thick and won't having enough clearance from the ceiling. Even currently with the concrete floor I can touch the ceiling easily, We are also double boarding the ceiling for sound dampening. Interesting. Did the tanking membrane sit on the vapour...

We're coming to the flooring stage of our garage conversion in the coming weeks. We currently have a good condition concrete floor to work with. Initially our plan was to letdown a DPM, 20mm foil backed insulation, moisture barrier, 22mm tongue and groove board, and then hard wood or laminate...

So does the fault lie with the consumer unit in the garage that has just been installed? If I tell the electrician he should know what to look for. He's coming back to do the full test on the building.

I have a garage which just has a new consumer unit installed. The building, separate to the house, takes its 13amp supply from the main house. I'm installing some lighting on one of the circuits on the board, all switches are off and I'm freely touching the copper. No current. When I put my...

More of the brick damage

This was the cause of the damp in the first place. No gutter to catch rain water causing it to trickle down exterior wall and soak mud. The downpipe is still draining into the mud but its catching all roof water now.

Yes I agree, VCL is under plasterboard and we will have a floor DPM, but I'm turning over woody's suggestion in my head of a poly-barrier against the wall side and I just don't know how it would be a superior choice over the breathable member which is in-situ given the vapour, if not evaporated...

Right, I understand the former concept of vapour moving into the walls and the poly vapour membrane on the warm side underneath the plasterboard helps prevent this, but when you say there's no need to allow it getting out the other side - this is what I can't grasp - if it doesn't escape...

Thanks for that, but I've got a few more questions in response to this: As this is a single leaf construction, aside from the ventilated cavity (which is absent here), wouldn't the vapour still evaporate (cavity or not) as the air will pass through the outer wall? My understand is that so long...