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That'll be fine - Just remember that someone will need to be able to get access to it and you will no longer be able to store stuff in the airing cupboard.

If you have an electrical backup I will presume you have a cylinder and do not have a combi boiler at all ??? Please clarify.

Unfortunately your description is not really suitable for diagnosis. Have you got hot water all the time? When you switch on the heating (With the taps closed) does the boiler do anything?

What revision PCB is in it? Does the green light goto "static on" or "flashing on"? Is there power on the switch live? Is there power to the pump? Is the pump running? Is there power to the fan? And does that run?

Some very old or cheaply installed systems don't have a locksield or return valve. Nothing to worry about; just prevents you from easily taking individual rads off the wall.... What is it you "actually" want to know?

I cannot recall or find any vrt378... I'm presuming this is just an obsolete stat. However; any zero-volt switching room stat will work... So my question has to be do you want wired or wireless?

Keep number to yourself matey ;) As for the fault - First thing first... How far away is the tap from the draw-off? Has the problem only just occured or is it an ongoing issue? When you open the tap; if you look on the diverter valve; you'll see a sindle extend and hit a microswitch...

Couple of suggestions/statements: a) What pipe is "leaking"? b) Have you checked the tanks when the water is overflowing? c) Why have you changed all them components? Each one is easy enough to test - If you want support diagnosing it - Be more specific - System/boiler type; actual fault, etc

How old is it? You may have the old PCB which will probably need replacing.

Get a CORGI in; you'll probably need a new diverter valve depending on the combi model.

How are they antiquated? 91% - A Rated efficiency 20 l/min @35 rise Upto 15m of vertical and 13m of horizontal fluing Class 5 NOX burner Range from 7-30kW

I normally use a small adjustable spanner to undo them.... Otherwise a no.2 posie drive comes in handy :lol: As for the boilers - Keep an eye out for leaking heat exchangers and low water pressure switches.

Just wire 1 of the boiler 0v wires to the clock "common"; then the clock "on" to the room stat "common" and then the room stat "on" to the other 0v on the boiler.

Page 17 of the installer manual; shows a 0v switching line on the main terminal block for a room stat; something like a Drayton LP111 or LP711 will do the job... Don't forget to leave the old clock on constant :wink:

Manual: http://www.gasaid.co.uk/manuals/Ferroli/FERROLI%20OPTIMA%201001%20GCNo.47-267-19.pdf Page 30 :wink:

Looks just big enough to get a tray under there; turn the valve off and the by-pass off; crack the nut; remove the rad and then connect hose to the rad valve. Alternatively; jump the microbore off and hook up to a hose; you'll need to get a bit imaginative with fittings; I now carry a BG hose...

Change the batteries; think it's left then right hand draw if I remember rightly - Although without one in front of me; would not guarantee it. Don't forget to put the receiver into "learn mode".

I've never had this; so interested in this now; surely if it's a stabilsed inlet at 5.8mb it would be drawing off the meter causing the meter to then give a normal working pressure of 21.5mb??

Megaflow with immersion would be my suggestion - At least then you have backup hot water when the boiler decides to take it's christmas vacation - We all know boxing day is one of the busiest :roll: If you are desperate for a combi; then I'd have to ask if this thing is going on a wall or...

Low water pressure switch is either blocked or faulty. Although I am not o-fay with this appliance so could not guarantee it.