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  1. M

    Curving end of straight staircase!

    I have a straight staircase, that comes down from a dormer loft conversion, which ends only 69 cm away from a wall: Stairs]]]]] <---> Wall So the gap betwen the baluster at the bottom of the stairs and the wall is only 69cm. This leaves a rather small passage in which to walk through...
  2. M

    Removing self levelling compound nightmare

    Folks, Nightmare scenario on my hands ... I've relocated my kitchen to another room. The old kitchen floor was a mixture of concrete (2/3rds) and floorboards (1/3rd), so the previous people had glued plywood down over the floorboards, then self levelling compound to the height of the...
  3. M

    Kitchen unit - centre island - fitting

    Folks, Any ideas on how to secure a central island in my kitchen? I will have an island about 1.3m by 0.90m, with a granite worktop 1.4m by 1.3m (i.e. with an overhang for stools). I fear that the unit legs will be a bit wobbly and so I want to screw the units onto the (concrete) floor...
  4. M

    Cooker circuit with junction box

    I'm moving a 6mm cable for a cooker circuit that is already embedded in a wall, and don't want to have to run a new cable and chase out the wall again, but the existing cable won't reach the junction box. Is there a law, or any common sense reason (or probably the other way round as I'm...
  5. M

    Laminate flooring & skirting

    Folks, As a result of having a room skim plastered I removed all the skirting boards. I'm now planning to fit laminate flooring. Would it be better to do this first, and then fit the skirting so it covers the 'gap' around the edges, or should I do the skirting then fit the floor then put a...
  6. M

    Yet Another Part P Question

    Okay, Looking at Part P I am exempt if: I am re-wiring a playroom, to include FCU's and additional sockets off an existing ring. This will take me a few weeks. At the end of this time, I will 'accidentally' install a new kitchen. As the room technically isn't a kitchen yet, all I am doing...
  7. M

    Cable routing

    I read somewhere that all electrical cable routes in walls should be either vertical or horizontal from the socket they are serving. I also read that any horizontal cables should be close to the ceiling or close to the skirting, and not in the middle of the wall. Is this true, or can I run a...
  8. M

    Electric socket embedded in kitchen floor

    Folks, I'm about to turn a playroom in my house into a kitchen. I am planning a semi-free standing central console, and so I want to run a spur under the floor to the centre of the room off the main ring circuit, and then embed an electric socket in the floor underneath the console. I was...
  9. M

    Undertile heating floor tile adhesive

    Folks, I recently laid some undertile heating on concrete, which I sealed with Ardex RS floor levelling compound (to protect it while tiling and also to give me a more level surface). I then tiled using normal flexible tile adhesive, but since then I have seen tile adhesive 'specially for...
  10. M

    Bathroom floor - to ply or not to ply

    Folks, As part of the work to fit a new bathroom, I've ripped up most of the tongue and groove chipboard flooring which I was going to replace with new stuff. Eventually I want to put down a waterproof laminate like Karndean, which requires a ply base. Do I need to replace the chipboard...
  11. M

    Bathroom Fan regulations

    Folks, I understand the regulations state you need to fit a bathroom fan in any new bathroom. I'm in the process of fitting a new ensuite bathroom. Do I really need to fit a fan? What are the implications if I don't (legally)? Cheers, MOL.
  12. M

    SELV Bathroom Downlights - Roof void access

    Folks, I want to install halogen SELV bathroom downlights in a new ensuite shower room, but the room is an attic conversion so there is no access to the roof void (yet!), and the roof void is about 50cm high. The existing lights are wall lights, so there is no lighting circuit in the roof...
  13. M

    Knocking down a non-supporting wall

    I am planning to knock down a non supporting wall between an en-suite and main bathroom to create a large family bathroom. The floors are concrete, and the wall is solid (breeze block I believe), and skim plastered. Any tips on doing this safely? A big sledgehammer or something a bit more...
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