12v or 230v Power to a water valve

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I have a direct acting water valve on 15mm copper pipe feeding into a 'coffin' water tank in a loft extension, it has IP65 connectors, could this be a 12v or could it be a 230v coil, on the valve.

It is not near a bath or shower, but outside the bathroom on a hall wall adjacent, (just next to the water tank)

I guess this could be viewed similar to an electric TRV on a radiator, which from what I can see can be 240v fed (apart from it sitting next to a large body of water).

Any help appreciated, valve suppliers selling the product so far been not much help ...
 
Could be either voltage. Or something else such as 24V.
No way to know without details of the actual valve.
 
If you can read its resistance that can give some clue, a resistance higher than 2000 to 3000 ohms is likely to be 230V ac and as lower values in order of 200 to 500 ohms can be for 12v to 24v dc
 
Sorry, my question is misleading - I want to install a valve, and have one in mind, just need to know the coil type to fit - 12v ? as its near water, or could it be 230v (as the connection is IP65), 230v better as it removes need for an always on transformer with 12v. Want it to be installed to satisfy Electrical Regs.
 
Thanks, in UK (as I guess as in US) Electrical Regs state the proximity, voltage and IP protection for electrical appliances near water.
Although the valve itself is not in or under a bath/shower or near a sink, a highly conductive copper pipe is bolted to either end of it, which itself connects back to cold water pipes on which water taps etc are connected - that could become live with 230v, although earth bonding and RCD protectoin would disconnect the system. Just seems odd having 230v sitting on top of a potential 'fountain' of water.
 
However an always On transformer does not draw significant amount of energy, may be just half to 1 watt at the most, when it is not on load, so again if you are overly safety conscious then you could still use a low voltage control to the valve with a 12 or 24v solenoid. Using 230v in an approved casing is fine since it will be in a splash proof housing to IP65. saves on space for housing the transformer elsewhere and so on.
 
Yes it will be a normally open valve - so good point, a constantly plugged in transformer in itself could be a fire hazard ... just another thing to go wrong ... 12v or 230v ... a dilema ...
 
Get the mains version. The fact it is connected to a pipe full of water is irrelevant.

No different from the dozens of electrical appliances which contain water such as washing machines, dishwashers, electric showers, kettles, irons, pumps, boilers etc.
 
Thanks, in UK (as I guess as in US) Electrical Regs state the proximity, voltage and IP protection for electrical appliances near water.
As Mike said above, a valve designed for 230V is perfectly fine so long as you install everything properly. There are numerous appliances around your home which have water in similar proximity to 230V - Kettles, immersion heater, washing machine, an instant electric shower if you have one, etc.

a constantly plugged in transformer in itself could be a fire hazard ...
Not so long as it's decent quality (no Chinese junk from eBay) and installed properly. Again, you probably have numerous other similar devices around the home which are running constantly - Power adapters for Ethernet router, cordless phones, etc.
 
Thanks all, your right, I'm being paranoid regarding 230v near water - as long as fittings are correct IP Rating.

Agree about cheap transformers from China - I have some here that run hot, even under no load, the cream coloured casing has distorted and discoloured over the years, thoughts of something like that enclosed in an MDF distribution cabinet would be worrying.
 
Worry not too much, mains valves designed for 230v operation for controlling CH etc are well made and adequately protected from shocks and water ingress (IP rated) so just go ahead and use a 230v as opposed to a 12v as using a transformer and low voltage supply becomes more cumbersome. Use an RCD for further protection at your supply point (Consumer unit)

You have to remember that water conducts electricity, but if the tank is galvanised steel, and earthed directly or indirectly by copper pipes, the risk of electrical shocks is minimum, even water spilling on live parts can draw current to nearest earth and minimise risk of shock, washing machines have such filling valves, and yet the risk of getting shock is minimum even if things do go wrong sometimes, as any water that may spill on wiring draws leakage currents into earth and trips RCD.
 
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