13A Cooker - wiring requirements

[caveman2]

I am hoping to help my son fit a new oven. It is rated as 13A and may come with flexi cable or none. Currently he has an Electric Oven cabled with 6mm cable from a 32A MCB. The new cooker will be opposite and will require additional wiring.
If the manufacturer suggests connecting to ring circuit, would you be happy with that or. Would you fit a DP Cooker Switch adjacent to Hob and cable 6mm to a Dual Appliance Connector Plate and feed the hob with recommended cable, and. Take another cable across the room to another Connector Plate to supply the new oven. If so what cable rating is recommended 2.5 or 6mm?

 

[flameport]

Please confirm exactly what you have and are intending to do.

Currently you have gas oven to electric in the title, then mention an existing electric oven, then a cooker, and then a hob - all of which are different things.

 

[caveman2]

My apologies , title edited. Both appliances will be changed. As far as I am aware the existing 32A MCB with 6mm cabling will be sufficient for his new Induction Hob rated 33A fitted adjacent to where his electric cooker is coming out. Fitting a DP Cooker Switch 45A and connector plate.
The electric oven is being replaced with a 13A single oven fitted on the other side of the kitchen. The easy option for this appliance is fitting 13A plug and using ring main or if manufacturer stipulates hard wiring a possible fused spur off of the ring, or. Is it preferable to cable it off the dual appliance connector plate which will be used opposite for the hob. If so should I run 2.5mm or 6mm and then a fused box.

 

[caveman2]

Sorry to bump the thread. I have changed my question. As I am happy with the cabling for the hob, I am still unsure about the cooker. Unfortunately he hasn't had it delivered yet but is aware that it is 13A. Whether or no cabled already again I am ignorant of too. In preparation because plastering has to be done soon, I would like to cable for it. If it is plugged would you fit a FCU in the ring main or off an existing socket, or would you cable from the dual appliance plate serving the hob again to a FCU first. Thanks.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Sorry to bump the thread. I have changed my question. As I am happy with the cabling for the hob, I am still unsure about the cooker.

A cooker is a hob and oven in one appliance so I presume you mean oven.

Unfortunately he hasn't had it delivered yet but is aware that it is 13A.

If that is so, then it should come with a fitted plug.

Whether or no cabled already again I am ignorant of too.

Then find out. How are we supposed to know what to tell you?

In preparation because plastering has to be done soon, I would like to cable for it.

You can't - without knowing what you want
.

If it is plugged would you fit a FCU in the ring main or off an existing socket,

You are asking silly questions.
Why are you asking - fit an FCU or use an existing socket? Fit a socket or use an existing one.

or would you cable from the dual appliance plate serving the hob

Yes I would.

again to a FCU first.

No, to another outlet plate or a socket.

 

[Adam_151]

I'm assuming by cooker you mean oven? (cooker being an appliance which contains one or more ovens and a hob).

You definatly want the induction hob on the dedicated 32A feed, while some units can have the max demand wound down, this often creates an undesireable cooking expierence. The cirucit would be suitable to power an oven as well as a hob, but the location is what makes it a little arkward. There is little in the way of hard and fast rules here, but generally you want to be aware of the following:

*The manufacturers instructions will ask for a double pole isolator
*Generally this should be local (often defined as 2m, but again, not explictly defined) or at least readily identifiable (so if serving the oven some distance away then I'd like to see it clearly identified - I've been to too many jobs where something hasn't been working because a switch has been turned off that no one thought was related to the issue)
*While a 2.5mm off the cooker outlet to one socket or fuced connection unit for the oven would be fine somehow it just doesn't feel quite right, personally I think I'd do it in 6mm, incase anyone needs to add an extra appliance off it, etc
*If you are adding a socket or concealing cables, you need to make sure the cirucit is RCD protected

 

[Adam_151]

So to summerise (I got distracted while writing that), I'd probably fit a dual outlet cooker point as you propose, and then run a second 6mm around (under units?) and fit a MK* single surface 13A socket in an adj cupboard to the oven for it to plug into, and labelled clearly that its supplied by cooker isolator. In an ideal world the cooker isolator would be identfiied as being for a the hob and oven, and while you can have accessories engraved, its probably not realistic for a domestic job, and no one wants to see yellow label tape in a kitchen! (although black on clear probably doesn't look as bad)

*MK because technically the standard for 13A sockets does not require them to be suitable for 6mm conductors, and while its a bit of a non issue because it'll fity, MK I beleive do state that their sockets are approved for 1x 6mm and its a decent quality socket which you want when its carrying a reasonable load