1. Visiting from the US? Why not try DIYnot.US instead? Click here to continue to DIYnot.US.
    Dismiss Notice

1930s Semi ; Novice questions on mouldy roof timber

Discussion in 'Roofing and Guttering' started by MHAD, 1 Nov 2007.

  1. MHAD

    MHAD

    Joined:
    30 Oct 2007
    Messages:
    42
    Thanks Received:
    1
    Location:
    Cheshire
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Hi. I have some very novice queries about the roof timbers in our 1930s semi. We have just boarded out the loft and fitted proper lighting, so can now see everything clearly for the first time after buying the house last year.

    Now that I can see properly in the loft space, I've noticed numerous areas of timber with surface mould. Some of this mould is fine and dark green / black, and some is fine white. Both types come away easily when wiped in most places, but I have found a few stubborn areas. The timbers they are on seem dry in the main, although might feel a little cold to the touch in comparison to others so may have been damp in the past. I've also found some isolated stark white fluffy bits, that remind me of a chrysalis, and are about 1/4'' in length. I don't know what any of these types of mould are, how serious they might be or whether I need to treat them somehow.

    I've taken photos of all of this and uploaded them to photobucket in case anyone is willing to take a look and offer any helpful advice ! I'd be very grateful for an opinion before I start spending money on timber surveys and expensive remedies that I don't know will work or if they are even necessary.

    http://s89.photobucket.com/albums/k233/richhallx/Roof Timbers/

    We cleared out the roof space before boarding it out - all the old clothes, insulation, pictures etc were very dusty but were bone dry. Ventilation seems OK - the cobwebs move about in the draft and you can feel a draft when you're standing still. We've insulated where we haven't boarded, and have kept a gap around the edge all the way round.

    I posted a topic the other day about lining the underside of the roof to keep everything clean, using Roofers Choice breathable membrane. Before I do any of this I obviously want to make sure the roof is OK.

    Hope someone can help - thanks very much.
     
  2. JohnD

    JohnD

    Joined:
    15 Nov 2005
    Messages:
    58,347
    Thanks Received:
    2,985
    Location:
    21st Century
    Country:
    Cook Islands
  3. MHAD

    MHAD

    Joined:
    30 Oct 2007
    Messages:
    42
    Thanks Received:
    1
    Location:
    Cheshire
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Thanks JohnD. We do exercise good general ventilation practice in the house already, however from what I've seen I imagine that the previous owners may not have done. The relevant section in the article looks like...



    Since we have renewed the insulation in the loft we seem to be getting less heat loss into the loft.

    Does anyone have any advice on the mould on the timbers?

    Thanks
     
  4. JohnD

    JohnD

    Joined:
    15 Nov 2005
    Messages:
    58,347
    Thanks Received:
    2,985
    Location:
    21st Century
    Country:
    Cook Islands
    as you have an unfelted tile roof, it will have quite good ventilation (and indeed be dirty and draughty). So if you can prevent moisture getting up there through gaps round pipes or the hatch, and verify that your water tanks are insulated and covered, you only need to spend time up there during heavy rain to look for leaks.

    As long as there is no unusual source of excess moisture, it will keep dry.

    p.s. those white things are insect or spider eggs in cobweb or similar.
     
  5. MHAD

    MHAD

    Joined:
    30 Oct 2007
    Messages:
    42
    Thanks Received:
    1
    Location:
    Cheshire
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Insect eggs... I hadn't thought of that !

    I don't have any water tanks in the loft - rightly or wrongly, we're fed directly from the mains, and have a combi boiler.

    I've fitted a new hatch and stop bead - I suppose I could add some draughtproof seal to the stop bead.

    We do have some pipes coming in from the bathroom - these only loop back from when the water tank was present, so when I redo the bathroom I can take these below the boards.

    Looks like I'm safe to put up the lining?
     
  6. masona

    masona

    Joined:
    5 Jan 2003
    Messages:
    12,883
    Thanks Received:
    125
    Location:
    Essex
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Have you thought about using pegboards? For some reason the dusts doesn't goes through the holes in my loft!
     
  7. Nige F

    Nige F

    Joined:
    28 Jun 2005
    Messages:
    19,847
    Thanks Received:
    1,448
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Pegboard.........masona AKA Barry Bucknall ;) :LOL:
     
  8. memor maplin

    memor maplin

    Joined:
    13 Nov 2007
    Messages:
    99
    Thanks Received:
    1
    Location:
    Sussex
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Go into your loft with a nail or a key and press the rafters that have got the staining. If the nail goes in easily you've got problems. If not if the battens and rafters are well ventilated give them a wipe down and leave alone.

    Memor
     
  9. DIYnot Local

    DIYnot Local

    Joined:
    3 Sep 2019
    Country:
    United Kingdom

    If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

    Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


    Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

     
Loading...

Share This Page