2 lights, one spur, only one light working
- Thread starter mccanno
- Start date
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I believe you are the only one who thinks that.
The fact that it's a shoe cupboard is irrelevant. But if you'd explained at the start that you needed its light to only be switchable if the light in the outer cupboard was on then you would have got an answer much quicker.
Or possibly other suggestions, like a door operated switch.
You don't get it. Why would anybody ask if that was what you wanted?
Actually what I said was "Electrical installations by trial and error/guesswork is a stupid idea".
I take it you think it's clever to try wiring things up without knowing what you are doing, hoping to get lucky?
Yes.
And IMO a perfectly non-contentious description.
Surely asking that means you don't know?
Surely saying that means that you realise you don't know what you are doing?thought I'd better ask people who knew what they were doing
Is the meaning of the word "ignorant" another thing you don't know?
And if you knew basic stuff like that the 2nd light needed a neutral and that to get the switches doing what you want you just needed them in series then you wouldn't have needed any help.
But you didn't know that.
And neither did you think that not knowing things like that, i.e. being ignorant of them should be a reason not to see if you could get lucky by trial and error.
I directed you at information which would help you to learn.
I stand for people genuinely understanding things before starting to fiddle with them.
And I stand firmly against the stupid idea of people trying to do electrical work on the basis of ignorance and guesswork.
This what you require:
Light one to switch on and off
Light two only to be able switch on when light one is on, so when light one is off, so is light two.
Is that correct?
If so
T&E from junction box to light one.
Brown core in ceiling rose loop or terminal block (not live of lighting)
Blue core to neutral terminal of fitting.
Earth to earth. sleeved green and yellow
From the first light you need to take a blue core neutral, from neutral terminal, so now you have two blue cores at that terminal.
This blue core goes to light two and is located at the neutral terminal.
From light one to switch, you run T&E terminate another brown core at loop/connection block (not the live at light)
Terminate blue core sleeved brown to live at light one.
and earth to earth sleeved g&y.
This cable at switch is terminated with brown to common, blue sleeved brown to L1. at gang one
earth to earth sleeved g&y
A link can then be but across L1 at gang two either brown core or blue sleeved brown.
Then a brown core is terminated at common of gang two, from there it is run to light two and terminated at live of fitting and an earth is also run from switch to light two and terminated at earth terminal.
That should do the trick!
Light one to switch on and off
Light two only to be able switch on when light one is on, so when light one is off, so is light two.
Is that correct?
If so
T&E from junction box to light one.
Brown core in ceiling rose loop or terminal block (not live of lighting)
Blue core to neutral terminal of fitting.
Earth to earth. sleeved green and yellow
From the first light you need to take a blue core neutral, from neutral terminal, so now you have two blue cores at that terminal.
This blue core goes to light two and is located at the neutral terminal.
From light one to switch, you run T&E terminate another brown core at loop/connection block (not the live at light)
Terminate blue core sleeved brown to live at light one.
and earth to earth sleeved g&y.
This cable at switch is terminated with brown to common, blue sleeved brown to L1. at gang one
earth to earth sleeved g&y
A link can then be but across L1 at gang two either brown core or blue sleeved brown.
Then a brown core is terminated at common of gang two, from there it is run to light two and terminated at live of fitting and an earth is also run from switch to light two and terminated at earth terminal.
That should do the trick!
May I add that it maybe easier to run three core and earth to the switch from the light one, to bring in permanent live(brown core) Switched Live (Black core to be sleeved brown) and neutral (grey core to be sleeved blue) plus earth.
The blue neutral between light one and two can then be omitted.
So your neutral conductor would be looped in at the switch via grey core from neutral terminal of light one, so at light one at the neutral terminal you will have blue from junction box and grey from switch.
At the switch the grey core can then be put in connection block, with a twin and earth then taken from switch to light one. The blue core of the twin and earth then connected to grey in block (with nothing else). So then to light two with brown core from common on gang two of switch to live of fitting and the blue to neutral of fitting, plus the earth.
Hope that does not complicate things, but would help regarding using two and three cores, rather than using singles.
The blue neutral between light one and two can then be omitted.
So your neutral conductor would be looped in at the switch via grey core from neutral terminal of light one, so at light one at the neutral terminal you will have blue from junction box and grey from switch.
At the switch the grey core can then be put in connection block, with a twin and earth then taken from switch to light one. The blue core of the twin and earth then connected to grey in block (with nothing else). So then to light two with brown core from common on gang two of switch to live of fitting and the blue to neutral of fitting, plus the earth.
Hope that does not complicate things, but would help regarding using two and three cores, rather than using singles.
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FGS Will you please wake up and smell the coffee and PLEASE take time out to learn and understand how circuits work.
What you have shown there would be a disaster.
And the fact that you can't see that is proof that you are not yet ready to be doing anything with light switches except flicking them on and off.
You are still trying to do electrical design on the basis of ignorant guesswork.
STOP.
NOW.
What you have shown there would be a disaster.
And the fact that you can't see that is proof that you are not yet ready to be doing anything with light switches except flicking them on and off.
You are still trying to do electrical design on the basis of ignorant guesswork.
STOP.
NOW.
noyou mean like this
more like this
The neutral is not switched and goes to terminal block at switch not com, L1 or L2 then to neutral of light 2.
You only need to link in switch lives at the L1s.
No need to take that to light 2.
The brown in com of light two (which will become a switch live, with this set) then goes to live on fitting.
This should then function as you wish it.
PBoD - "electrical-installation-by-numbers", following instructions to put-this-wire-in-that-hole without knowing why, is a very bad idea.
The only acceptable basis on which to be doing electrical work is one of a full and genuine understanding.
If instead of helping the OP to learn you just tell him to put-this-wire-in-that-hole when it is abundantly clear that he does not understand is irresponsible and dangerous, and not in his best interests.
The only acceptable basis on which to be doing electrical work is one of a full and genuine understanding.
If instead of helping the OP to learn you just tell him to put-this-wire-in-that-hole when it is abundantly clear that he does not understand is irresponsible and dangerous, and not in his best interests.
BAS:
I personally think the op would regardless of your/mine or another's' input, still continue swapping conductors around. Until they either go pop or they work.
I am hoping by hammering the fact home, that he needs a neutral at light two and the fact the conductors are blue does not by any means define that conductor as a neutral, will sink in.
But I do take on board what you are saying and understand your concerns and I agree that the OP should understand the fundamental principles of electrical circuits.
I personally think the op would regardless of your/mine or another's' input, still continue swapping conductors around. Until they either go pop or they work.
I am hoping by hammering the fact home, that he needs a neutral at light two and the fact the conductors are blue does not by any means define that conductor as a neutral, will sink in.
But I do take on board what you are saying and understand your concerns and I agree that the OP should understand the fundamental principles of electrical circuits.
Then please stop telling him anything except "please stop fiddling with things you don't understand and learn about them first".
The depth of ignorance displayed by his last drawing is truly staggering.
The depth of ignorance displayed by his last drawing is truly staggering.
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