2 pump's

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matt1e look forward to seeing your solution
picasso spoke to a company in Dublin today that sell relays and there are very few over here
if the op is still reading this thread I just noticed your above quote! you will get one at maplins in Dublin no problem at all and one of these
will be more than enough just make sure you get the 240v version,also I would get the din mount and an enclosure

Matt

edit I did have the dublin page in the url and also the url of the relay page but for some reason its redirecting to maplins home page so use the store locator function to find the Dublin store (relays are listed under components)
the relay code is N07AW
the socket for it is N34AW
I'll let you pick your own enclosure
 
yes matt i have been keeping track of the responses.
i have just uploaded 2 diagram's of the h37xl & h47xl
i can get the way your solution works but i just can't get my head around the way of incorporating the relays into the 2 diagrams which i've uploaded.
any chance of having a look and what your solution would be

thank's
 
I've been away for a long weekend to a nieces's Wedding...

Why are you all so determined to make this system so complicated?

S Plan Plus with as many zones as you need [the fewer the better] and wire all the end switches [grey and orange wires] in parallel to switch the boiler and pump on. One or more zones can be underfloor, which will need a blending or mixing valve as well as its 2 port.
 
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the problem is the wilo pump is in the hotpress and if i connected the conservatory to the main heating primary then that means the flow for conservatory has to come down into hotpress from attic and return to the attic and flow out to conservatory, unless i move the pump up into the attic
the pump has 3 speeds and it just does'nt seem to be able to circulate the distance
by the way it is'nt a wilo pump but a terrier tc5 pump.

thanks for responses
 
for mysteryman.
the ufh that i have comes with pump stat & blending valve
this is the design by the ufh manuf.
so at the very least this would require 1 relay to allow pumps to operate independently
thanks
 
That's OK.

The underfloor is a largely free-standing separate zone with its own control for its own pump. It will have a 'boiler run' electrical output. This can drive open one of your 2 port valves, and that will bring the boiler on.

Keep it simple!
 
yes matt i have been keeping track of the responses.
i have just uploaded 2 diagram's of the h37xl & h47xl
i can get the way your solution works but i just can't get my head around the way of incorporating the relays into the 2 diagrams which i've uploaded.
any chance of having a look and what your solution would be

thank's
yes will have a look tomorrow as its late now,but I think either mysteryman or myself are misinterprating what you require, please correct me if I'm wrong the way I see it is that you require
1 a zone for hot water
2 a zone for the conservatory with its own stat & pump
3 a zone for the rest of the house with its ownstat & pump
4 an UFH zone with its own with its own stat,blending valve and pump
5 and that you require all zones (including 2&3) to be independant of each other ie you can have the conservatory heating on with out the rest of the house on (this is an important question)
also please state the make/model of boiler

Matt
 
matt you are correct on all those points,that's what i was trying to acheive.
it is a benetone oil burner cooker and it was converted from solid fuel.
the way i see the h37xl working would be to:
1. add 2nd pump
2. add a number 13 connector to w/c
3. on z/v 2 which is the bottom one take the s/l to number 13 instead of 12.
4. bring 2nd pump live to 13
5. bring boiler live to 13.
6. but the problem i have then is boiler and 2nd pump are connected to same live!! will that not cause backfeed ??
and the ufh will not be ready for a while yet as i've only put in the foundations and deadwork
so would that mean i only need the 1 relay on the boiler live but when the ufh was connected i would need2.

thanks.
 
Not throwing a spanner in the works here Les, but multi pump installations have a habit of having heating back-feed problems; zones off but heating up from an on zone via the Return.

So ensure your Returns are located correctly & use zone valves where you can.

All these cirulators are daft by the way, think about the 'head' you are producing!!.......... :rolleyes:
 
delta t can you comment further about your statement about producing more head??
thanks
 
delta t can you comment further about your statement about producing more head??
thanks

How many circulators in total will be fitted Les?

Too be frank it all sounds a bit overkill and I tend to agree with MM. Though what Matt has proposed is both informative & well thought through.

An installation like yours could be altered to have a circulator at any UFH manifold/s, a main one(shunt) at the boiler & zone valves controlling all zones...................Remember KISS chaps!!!
 
3 pumps will be fitted
1. ufh when i install it
2. main house and dhw
3. conservatory
there will be 3 z/v fitted and when ufh goes in another z/v will be installed.
 
I still do not see why you need more than one main pump plus the local pump in the UFH zone - which is a separate zone on its own.

You are trying to make it unnecessarily complicated.

As an aside to that, a converted cooker may be inefficient and not very controllable.
 
Quite apart from what has been written above, if you have an Ideal Mini boiler, fitting pumps in series will often prevent the boiler recognising any flow and stop it from operating.

In any normal situation only one pump is required to operate the whole boiler's heat output in rads.

UFH has its own pump which has another function which is to circulate water in a closed loop and does not take part in circulation within the boiler connected heating circuit.

Tony
 

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