2 strange light bulb problems

[Halloween Jack]

Hi folks,

2 things have happened:

1) I have the same model dimmer switch in 2 rooms. I had 72W (100W Equiv) B22 Bayonet Halogen Low Energy Saving GLS Lamp [KHL72GLS/B22] in them and they were fine.

I just bought Dimmable 20w (100w) Eveready Soft Lite Bayonet B22 / BC Micro Spiral[ERSLLEMS20WBCDI] to be more energy efficient but they flicker badly on lower settings. It's got worse so now they flicker all the time.

I wonder if it's my dimmer switches specs that are not suitable? I'm not sure how to check.

Do I need to go back to the Halogens or is there something else I can do. Maybe new dimmer switches?

2) I bought 2 GU10 LED BULB 6W WITH 27 x 5050 SMD LED's and put them in my kitchen's track light.

They worked great at first, came on immediately and lit perfectly, so I've ordered another 2 as there are 4 lights in total on the track.

But after a couple of days they have gone very dim, they don't get bright at all. the other 2 bulbs sharing the track with them are 11W (50W) GU10 Kosnic Low Energy Saving. Could these be effecting them?

It's hard to believe they both have the same fault.

Any ideas?

 

[Halloween Jack]

The other 2 G10 bulbs just arrived. I've put them in and they are bright but the original 2 are still dim.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I just bought Dimmable 20w (100w) Eveready Soft Lite Bayonet B22 / BC Micro Spiral[ERSLLEMS20WBCDI] to be more energy efficient but they flicker badly on lower settings. It's got worse so now they flicker all the time.

They are dimmable using dimmer switches are they? Some cheeky manufacturers used to make "dimmable" lamps which worked in a series of stages as you flicked them on and off.

I wonder if it's my dimmer switches specs that are not suitable?

That's another possibility - just because the lamps can be dimmed that does not mean that you have the right sort of dimmers. Also a lot of ordinary ones have a minimum load which CFLs and LEDs fail to present.

I'm not sure how to check.

Ask the maker.

Or ask the lamp makers what dimmers you can use, and swap.

But after a couple of days they have gone very dim, they don't get bright at all.

What do the makers say about dimming them?

The other 2 G10 bulbs just arrived. I've put them in and they are bright but the original 2 are still dim.

Don't be surprised if the new ones go dim.

 

[Halloween Jack]

Hi there,

with situation 1 they flicker even with the dimmer switch on full now.

Here's what it says inside the dimmer switch:

Crab Tree
CPU 2W400
60-400W
200-240V
EN 60669-2-1

Does that shed any light (groan) on why they're not working with these bulbs or what kind of bulb I need?

In situation 2 I am not using this track light with a dimmer switch, just a normal one. That's the weird thing, I can't imagine why they are not compatible. Maybe just 2 faulty bulbs? I don't know, is there anything else that might cause this effect?

They were quite pricey so i want to send them back if they were faulty.

Cheers

 

[Scoby_Beasley]

The Aurora Dimmer Modules get good references, though whether this would be suitable in your situation.

Perhaps someone can give it a look over for you.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Here's what it says inside the dimmer switch:

Crab Tree
CPU 2W400
60-400W

I just bought Dimmable 20w

There's one mismatch for you.

In situation 2 I am not using this track light with a dimmer switch, just a normal one.

My apologies - I thought it was another dimmer problem.

Unless the heat from the halogens has cooked the LED ones they should be fine.

Have you got anywhere else you could try them to make sure that they are OK, or broken?

 

[Halloween Jack]

One the 1st problem:

Yes I noticed that mismatch.

So then I thought my dimmer switch is made for incandescants not energy saving, so I need a new dimmer switch.

I've just gone to B&Q to find a dimmer switch with a lower wattage. But none have those details on the packets. The people at B&Q all said you need to get bulbs that are compatible with the switches not vice versa. Googling the issue I got found similar. No mention that you had to get special dimmer switches to work with dimmable energy saving bulbs.

And now I've put my old halogen bulb back in it only comes on at one brightness which is very dim. So I guess the bulb has broken the switch.

I really need to know what's going on here so I can buy the right thing.

On the second problem. They can't have over heated they're about a foot from each other. I have swapped the bulbs around to test them, and the original 2, the now dim ones, are dim in every socket, and the bright ones are bright in every socket.

So, faulty bulbs?

My head hurts

 

[Scoby_Beasley]

The people at B&Q all said you need to get bulbs that are compatible with the switches not vice versa. Googling the issue I got found similar.

May be good advice from the peeps at B&Q (sorry, couldn't find the sarcasm tag). Just remember that last week they were probably frying your fries at a well known, but sheite, burger dispensary location (bring back Wimpy with the toasted buns I say!!).

 

[Halloween Jack]

I know. I was going to be more cutting about their comments. There was a longer story attached to the advice they gave me but after getting home and goggle-ing the question instead I took pity on them. Especially when I have no idea what's going on either.

But anyway, can anyone help with this dimmable energy saving problem?

 

[Taylortwocities]

Dimmers don't work properly unless they are working within their operating range.

You probably need a Lo-watt dimmer like this http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/VLJQP401W.html
these work with loads as low as 3 watts.

The lamp load must (of course) be dimmerable.

 

[Halloween Jack]

Thanks. This all makes sense now.

It's just amazing that dimmer switch packaging (I looked at about 6 different ones in B&Q) doesn't mention the wattage range. Or that dimmable bulbs don't mention the restriction.

I guess it hasn't caught up with the change from incandescent yet.

I did try to google low wattage switches and ones suitable for energy saving bulbs with not much success. So thanks for that link I'll take a look

Cheers

 

[Halloween Jack]

Is there any other restrictions except wattage range?

Is a slave switch ok to use if I use it in isolation with just one light?

Do I need trailing edge or anything??

I ask as many switches descriptions do not mention CFL compatibility.

Cheers

 

[Halloween Jack]

And also if I use with a 20W CFL is that the only wattage or is it lower when it's dimmed?

Cheers

 

[Taylortwocities]

Click on "dimmer selection guide" on that link I sent you.

Most, if not all, of your queries are answered there.

 

[Halloween Jack]

that's great.

Thx very much for all your help.