Anybody have any experience of them, and how they compare to 3528 or 5050 based products?
AFAICT, all* LED strip vendors do tell you what their strips use.as I've never seen any fitting being advertised as such,
I know because they tell me, I care because I want to understand the +/- of different technology.I'll throw the question back as to how you know or care?
They all* look the same, and they are all* sold by people who don't make them, which makes me think there aren't many makers.To me the most important consideration is the manufacturer,
Irrelevant unless the colour I want is not available out of a particular LED.colour temperature,
Or lm/m?lumens per watt,
They all* quote the same 50,000 hours.longevity
Irrelevant unless a particular LED cannot be dimmed. Anyway - isn't that a function of the driver, either designed to output variable width pulses or not?and dimming capability
Actually dimming is essential to me.Probably in that order.
LEDs are dimmed by controlling the CURRENT through them.they are very very voltage sensitive so dimming could be achieved possibly by say 9-12v range
LEDs are dimmed by controlling the CURRENT through them.they are very very voltage sensitive so dimming could be achieved possibly by say 9-12v range
Controlling the voltage applied to the LED's terminals does appear to work but the current is then controlled only by the small internal resistance of the LED. Depending on type of LED that resistance varies with both current and temperature. This resistance can reduce with increasing current which leads to run away current leading to destruction of the LED. Some LEDs will break down if the forward voltage ( the direction that makes the LED light ) is a made to be a few tenths of a volt above the voltage the LED has when carrying its maximum peak current.
The voltage of the battery is too low to light the LED ( probably due to a controller of some sort ) but can turn the drill.thats interesting a battery that will not even light up an led will happily drill a hole in wood
The voltage is high enough to get current through the LED but the capacity of the battery is too small to supply enough current to the motor.yet a battery that will give say 50% light output will turn the drill about 1/4 turn then stop
My general experience of all things adhesive is that I would be wary of using self-adhesive strips in a kitchen, and concerned that over the long term (years) they would not stay stuck, and would prefer some kind of mechanical fixing.
The first one appears to be 9 LED elements assembled into a module. It is possible ( probable ) that those multi-element lamps have current control circuitry in the assembly. In which case the supply voltage is not critical in terms of setting current through the LED elements but is limited by the dissapation of the excess heat generated by excess voltage.its a very simple set up as in leds wire and crock clips no electronics other than the leds
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