Lol.
250mm footings or raft
- Thread starter ari2019
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Leofric
NHBC Standards only require raft edge thickening to be 350mm below ground level and to a width of 300mm. DPM detail at the edge is awkward.
I would say dpc is required in garage walls min 150mm above ground level.
I would say dpc is required in garage walls min 150mm above ground level.
Hmm, a DPC does not seem to do a great deal - especially for the moisture coming down and across a solid wall above DPC.
And as a garage floor is typically at ground level and a DPC should be 150mm above ground level, what happens there?
So rather that be stuck in robot mode, it's better to do away with a pointless DPC which offers nothing to a garage.
And as a garage floor is typically at ground level and a DPC should be 150mm above ground level, what happens there?
So rather that be stuck in robot mode, it's better to do away with a pointless DPC which offers nothing to a garage.
Hilarious how Woods shows a single skin garage, sideways rain and no roof protection, to prove his rather weak point. Even on a single skin garage a DPM coupled with a DPC will out perform a poxy raft as the brickwork would need to be saturated before ingress occurs. A very rare occurrence.
Why did you not show the DPM in your illustration?
Seriously, a raft? Give over!
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On the solid 225mm walled garage we are building presently, I decided to go with a stepped DPC with the internal DPC at slab level stepping up two courses on the external skin. Works perfectly.
Raft my arse!
Raft my arse!
Roof or not, it illustrates the well known scientific fact that moisture penetrates a solid brick wall.
Which then raises the question of why insert a DPC when moisture will still be getting across the wall above the DPC.
Answer me that.
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Depends on the finish of the exterior of the solid wall.Roof or not, it illustrates the well known scientific fact that moisture penetrates a solid brick wall.
Which then raises the question of why insert a DPC when moisture will still be getting across the wall above the DPC.
Answer me that.
Because the rare time that there is driving rain prolonged enough to actually become a problem does not become the reason for forsaking all other moisture preventing practices. Your argument that once in a lifetime your vertical wall may allow the penetration of rainwater is not a good enough reason for leaving out a DPC and a DPM and is certainly a poxy excuse to fit an inferior, troublesome raft.Roof or not, it illustrates the well known scientific fact that moisture penetrates a solid brick wall.
Which then raises the question of why insert a DPC when moisture will still be getting across the wall above the DPC.
Answer me that.
It' not just that. Its about location, roof overhang and other factors. Woody knows too well that the conditions for a wall to become saturated and begin admitting water are extremely rare. He also knows that garages built upon slabs are often penetrated by groundwater.
He is being obtuse.
Hi, See pics of site. My house was built in 97 and the land around me is reasonably good. I will be building a garage on the location you see in pics. Land is reasonably good and has limestone chippings on it whre i park my cars/van. The garage will be 8x8 but considering making it larger to 10 or 11x8. Double skinned block.
My question is, i was going to dig down 600mm and fill up 400mm of that with concrete but friend who works in construction with me has mentioned the fondations has to be below the frost line, then build up with block either on the flat or on edge and the cavity filled with a weak mix. However in my building book, it clearly shows the foundations showing min of 300mm in a 600mm trench which brings me above the frost line. Now im confused.
I was hoping, if i had to dig deeper than the 600mm, ill just fill the trench full of concrete to just below 250mm below the ground level then start my blocks from here.
My question is, i was going to dig down 600mm and fill up 400mm of that with concrete but friend who works in construction with me has mentioned the fondations has to be below the frost line, then build up with block either on the flat or on edge and the cavity filled with a weak mix. However in my building book, it clearly shows the foundations showing min of 300mm in a 600mm trench which brings me above the frost line. Now im confused.
I was hoping, if i had to dig deeper than the 600mm, ill just fill the trench full of concrete to just below 250mm below the ground level then start my blocks from here.
The raft is working out more expensive. All that extra steel and working tieing it, installing is throwing the price up more.
In this country I believe 450mm down is enough for frost
http://nhbccampaigns.co.uk/landingpages/techzone/previous_versions/2011/Part4/section4/sitework.htm
The most important thing is digging down enough to reach ground of suitable bearing capacity -thats almost aways going to be deeper than 450mm. You wont know until you dug your trench. The other thing to bear in mind is trees or hedges in the zone of influence.
Correct. It is why it is preferred/recommended/carried out.
Nonsense. Frost will only affect the concrete if temperatures plummet whist the conc' is curing.
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