25mm cable ???

I'm not getting side tracked here with stupid bickering.

If anyone would like to suggest to me a decent, good value lounge and kitchen pendant I'm all ears. There are loads, but obviously I want something that's going to do the job
 
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Some tips.

Don't use 6mm cable for a gas boiler.
Either its own circuit from the CU (6A MCB) or off kitchen ring.
Use 2.5mm cable out the cable you have available.

At the boiler have a 3A FCU.

Lighting
If your having ceiling roses and pendants, loop through at the rose.

If your having fancy lights; loop thru at the switches, i.e take neutrals to the switches.
This reduces junction boxes


Its normal and safer and easier to run the bathroom fan off the lighting circuit (and required if it has a timer linked to the light). Same with shaver point. Use lighting circuit.

The upstairs hall is normally known as the landing.
 
OP you put in as many downlights as you want. There are NO building regulations preventing you from doing it.
That is untrue.

Hopefully you are simply mistaken rather than telling people things which you know are untrue because you don't like the law and you think that there's nothing wrong with inefficient lighting.


A properly installed downlighter installation does a brilliant job of evenly lighting a room.
"A properly installed..." translates to "If you use a massive number of them in order to compensate for their lamentable ability to provide general room illumination then a..."?


If you use a 5W LED in each fitting it keeps the eco warriors happy too.
And if you used an LED luminaire actually designed to evenly light up a whole room, how many watts would you need?
 
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I would notify building control if they offered a consultation service that I already pay for as part of council tax.
Yes, the law does not apply if no consultation service. :rolleyes:
That is why there is self certification is it not?
Yes, it is, but you're not registered to self-certify so you have to notify Building Control before you start and they may rightly deem you incompetent.

The live connections are being checked by a competent, registered spark how many times do I have to **** repeat this
You can say it as many **** times as you like but it still won't alter the fact that you have to notify before you start..
 
No I won’t be making connections, just running cable.
That is construction. And choosing the type, size and route of the cable is design.

Are you qualified to sign an EIC for design and construction?

If not, who is going to sign it?


I would notify building control if they offered a consultation service that I already pay for as part of council tax.
I can't decide whether you are being deliberately obtuse because you think we will find it entertaining, or if you really are a bit stupid.


The work will be inspected and signed of by a qualified electrician
Is that with the prior knowledge and agreement of your Building Control department?

Unless you employ a criminal you WILL NOT get an EIC, and you WILL NOT get Building Regulations sign off.


I know about part l, part p, look at previous posts.
I have.

You may "know about them" in the sense that you know they exist, but you do not know how to comply with them.


(More stuff with more mistakes providing more superfluous proof that you don't know what you are doing)



1 Pendant light to hall used with two way switch operable from top and bottom of stairs - don't know how this is done
Dear God.

You don't even understand how simple 2-way switching works and yet you think you are qualified to design electrical installations.

What's wrong with you?


If there are mistakes please correct where necessary.
There are several.

You cannot legitimately design an electrical installation by making wild guesses full of mistakes and then ask people to put them right for you. Have you actually read and understood the declaration on an EIC?
 
Maybe I should have written "... no practical importance ...".
So you think it is of no practical importance for people to be able to know that the law applies to them?


Do you really think that anyone would believe that the part of the Building Regs concerned with 'Electrical Safety' did not apply to 'mains voltage' wiring within their houses?
Honestly?

Based on the body of work on this forum posted by idiots?

Yes, I absolutely do believe that.


If anyone read the bits of Part P and Approved Doc P which you cite (which I imagine very few do) and got confused by the terminology, I presume that they would either look at the definitions or ask questions.
Why would those definitions be there if the authors did not believe it was important for people to know what the terms mean?


'Wrong' is not the word.
So you don't believe that they are wrong to think it is important for people to know what the terms mean?


Legislation obviously should be as precise as possible. However, I would have hoped that they would have contemplated the possibility of the legislation (and AD) being read by non-electricians, and would at least have annotated the references to LV and ELV to ensure thatreaders understood their meaning within the legislation.
But they didn't.

Because they didn't, are you able to explain why it is of no practical importance for people to know what the terms mean? It seems to me that the lack of obvious definitions makes it even more important.


Whatever, as I've said, I would be far more concerned if we started seeing consumer items designed for 230V being labelled 'Low Voltage' - which (given the widespread 'ignorance' of the general public of which you disapprove) would, IMO, be extremely dangerous.
How would it be dangerous?
 
I'm not getting side tracked here with stupid bickering.
The best way to avoid that would be for you to go away, and use the time you would have spent bickering with all the people who are trying to get you to accept that you are too ignorant to be doing this work to find an electrician to do the lot.
 
Shaver point to run off bedroom ring circuit, to be placed well outside zones 1,2

You must not connect it directly to a ring final. Either use a fused connection unit outside the bathroom or connect it to the lighting circuit.

Will make a note not to run the spur inside as you suggest and have outside next to bathroom light switch. Planning to have an adjustable switch for the fan to allow the fan to come on automatically when lights are turned on.
 
I think i'm beginning to agree with the others. Your not really taking on board the easy stuff. See my previous post.

The fan and shaver should be on the lighting circuit.
 
Some tips.

Don't use 6mm cable for a gas boiler.
Either its own circuit from the CU (6A MCB) or off kitchen ring.
Use 2.5mm cable out the cable you have available.

At the boiler have a 3A FCU.

Lighting
If your having ceiling roses and pendants, loop through at the rose.

If your having fancy lights; loop thru at the switches, i.e take neutrals to the switches.
This reduces junction boxes


Its normal and safer and easier to run the bathroom fan off the lighting circuit (and required if it has a timer linked to the light). Same with shaver point. Use lighting circuit.

The upstairs hall is normally known as the landing.

Thanks chap. Ran the lounge and kitchen socket cables today, and my friend suggested 2.5mm for boiler is fine so we ran that, which I'm glad now you say is right. Then ran 6mm independently for the cooker to C/U. The cooker extraction hood was ran as a spur off the ring circuit. For convenience we ran all the sockets 11 in total on one circuit. 6 lounge, 5 kitchen, with enough slack on the cable to feed into the consumer unit which I've not bought yet. So basically cable feeds around the perimeter of the open plan room, and doesn't exceed 100m2.

I'll do as you suggest for the 3a FCU to boiler.

Not quite understanding the bit about the lighting, but running that tomorrow and I'm sure will be able to concur with what you've said.

Pretty much decided on 1 pendant for lounge, one for kitchen (don't know how much light I will need and if one pendant will be enough ????), sticking with spotlights with warm bulbs for bedrooms and bathroom as suggested earlier..

The shaver and extractor you say wire into lighting circuit, other chap says ring it ? Not sure now? If this is what I need to have a timer then I must do this, so counteract my last post about having it on a ring.

Good advice there chap thank you :)
 
OP you put in as many downlights as you want. There are NO building regulations preventing you from doing it.
That is untrue.

Hopefully you are simply mistaken rather than telling people things which you know are untrue because you don't like the law and you think that there's nothing wrong with inefficient lighting.


A properly installed downlighter installation does a brilliant job of evenly lighting a room.
"A properly installed..." translates to "If you use a massive number of them in order to compensate for their lamentable ability to provide general room illumination then a..."?


If you use a 5W LED in each fitting it keeps the eco warriors happy too.
And if you used an LED luminaire actually designed to evenly light up a whole room, how many watts would you need?

Recommend one for lounge, kitchen, I'm all ears
 
I would notify building control if they offered a consultation service that I already pay for as part of council tax.
Yes, the law does not apply if no consultation service. :rolleyes:
That is why there is self certification is it not?
Yes, it is, but you're not registered to self-certify so you have to notify Building Control before you start and they may rightly deem you incompetent.

The live connections are being checked by a competent, registered spark how many times do I have to **** repeat this
You can say it as many **** times as you like but it still won't alter the fact that you have to notify before you start..

It's not against the law and you don't need a doctorate to run dead cable. The entire system will be inspectable from start to finish, no boards fitted back, no connections covered up. I don't care if you're not happy with this, no pleasing some people
 
No I won’t be making connections, just running cable.
That is construction. And choosing the type, size and route of the cable is design.

Are you qualified to sign an EIC for design and construction?

If not, who is going to sign it?


I would notify building control if they offered a consultation service that I already pay for as part of council tax.
I can't decide whether you are being deliberately obtuse because you think we will find it entertaining, or if you really are a bit stupid.


The work will be inspected and signed of by a qualified electrician
Is that with the prior knowledge and agreement of your Building Control department?

Unless you employ a criminal you WILL NOT get an EIC, and you WILL NOT get Building Regulations sign off.


I know about part l, part p, look at previous posts.
I have.

You may "know about them" in the sense that you know they exist, but you do not know how to comply with them.


(More stuff with more mistakes providing more superfluous proof that you don't know what you are doing)



1 Pendant light to hall used with two way switch operable from top and bottom of stairs - don't know how this is done
Dear God.

You don't even understand how simple 2-way switching works and yet you think you are qualified to design electrical installations.

What's wrong with you?


If there are mistakes please correct where necessary.
There are several.

You cannot legitimately design an electrical installation by making wild guesses full of mistakes and then ask people to put them right for you. Have you actually read and understood the declaration on an EIC?

I'm quite taken back by the amount of time you invest in meddling and obstructing peoples efforts. You read my earlier comments, help or GO AWAY
 

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