3 gang 1 way smart switch (no neutral)

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Hi everyone,

I'm trying to replace my current 3-gang, 1-way switch with a smart switch. The new switch only has one 'live' terminal and three (L1, L2, L3) terminals for each light, whereas my old switch has 3 pairs (1 COM and 1x L1) for each light i.e. 6 terminals altogther.

I'm aware my old switch doesn't have a neutral, so i've gone for one of the 'no-neutral' smart switches that has a capacitor i need to install on one of the lights.

My question is how do connect my 6 wires into just 4 terminals on the new switch?

My current thinking is to wire all 3 COM wires into the one L terminal, then each of the three blue wires into L1, L2, L3 respectively - is this correct?
Or can i just use any one of the COM wires, and leave the other two disconnected?

Many thanks for the help!
 

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The 3 lives could come from different circuits. If so you must not connect them together.
 
Thanks @winston1. If all 3 lights turn off when i flip the same breaker, does that mean they are on same circuit?

And if so, does that mean i'm ok to join the 3 lives together? Or is better to try leaving 2 of the lives disconnected and just using 1?

Thank again!
 
Thanks @winston1. If all 3 lights turn off when i flip the same breaker, does that mean they are on same circuit?

And if so, does that mean i'm ok to join the 3 lives together? Or is better to try leaving 2 of the lives disconnected and just using 1?

Thank again!

If they all go off when you operated the MCB, it then sounds that they come from the same circuit. You'll have trouble putting three conductors in the one terminal. You should be ok to use just one of the browns and put the other two in a bit of insulated terminal block to make them safe.

Do let us know if it works!
 
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Update:

I got it to work by using 1 of the COM wires, and isolating out the other two. All three COM wires were on the same circuit, and i double-checked using a multimeter and testing pairs to the COM wires on the resistance setting and found all three wires were already connected to each other (i.e. the meter had zero restance between any pairs of the COM).

The capacitor method worked nicely too. The blurb is that without the neutral wire, the switch keeps a low amount of current flowing one of the lights to keep the switch itself powered up (otherwise you'd lose the smart connectivity when all the lights are off). The light that's kept on low power will flicker if using low energy bulbs and the capacitor is used to stop the flickering.

Once i wired up the switch, i turned it on to see which of the lights flickered before installing the capacitor just to double check which one needed it.

Pretty happy all round :)
 
Thanks jonnyy2357. I see that the capacitor comes included with the switch.

I've got an old-school touch sensitive dimmer - been in use for some twenty years or more, but since we've 'gone LED' there is the issue of slight flickering when the light's switched off - well more than slight actually. I'm thinking that a capacitor would solve the problem.

Question: Do you know what value that capacitor is that comes with the MOES?
 

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