4 inches causing agro..

[ColJack]

I was pondering something similar to start with.. but that leaves me with the fridge socket and the FCU for the boiler in the cupboard.. and the meter is STILL in the way.. it will be half in the cupboard..

If I can pay £50-60 quid to get it moved so I can do it right, then why not?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

How about because you can't pay that little. Or have you had a quote?

Also - are either of those pipes hot ones?

 

[ColJack]

surely it's not going to be more than that to re-arrange a meter board?

it's not like they're moving it to the other side of the house or a few meters to another wall.. it's 4 inches and the fuse will be in exactly the same place when finished.. only the meter would be the other side..

as for the pipes.. they're CH pipes and will be lagged accordingly before being boxed in..

 

[securespark]

I would do as you suggested.

Collar a geezer & ply him with tea, biccys & £20 notes....

 

[ColJack]

but how do I make tea if he's got the power off???

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

i suppose its fortunate that the DNO's equipment is not damaged anyway. That might be dangerous. They might have to come and rectify any declared/perceived danger with their equipment.

I wonder if it was damaged, how they would repair it? It might involve removing the meter board to inspect/replace any damage to the conductor. I wonder, if that happened, would the board go back in the same position?

 

[ColJack]

are you sugesting that I falsify an emergency callout report?

I could never do that.. ::

 

[LiamPope]

Why not just box over half the meter as per the red line in your diagram? You could always put a little window or hinged flap in so the meter can be read. I'm sure as a pro spark you've seen much worse

Liam

 

[Steve]

I was pondering something similar to start with.. but that leaves me with the fridge socket and the FCU for the boiler in the cupboard.. and the meter is STILL in the way.. it will be half in the cupboard..

So? Cut a hole in the back of the left cupboard for the socket, then "modify" (butcher) the right cupboard to fit around the boiler. How about a photo or diagram of the whole area, with measurements? I might be able to come up with something (i might be missing something here). Measurement from corner to left of meter board, and full width measurment.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Or choose a kitchen where you can buy carcass material and doors separately so that you can build something to the exact size & shape you need.

 

[ColJack]

B&Q IT kitchens.. doors are seperate and you can buy filler strips and cabinet panels seperate ( cabinets are white but you can buy a color matched side to suit the doors.. )

View media item 13614
the units are to scale as listed..

already have a larder unit, but it's fitted with 300 shelves at the moment..
can swap for 600..

 

[Steve]

Here's a plan I come up with:

Ditch the prefab cabinets, make your own cabinet frames and face with B&Q's finest.

Untitled

• Steve
• 11 Aug 2009
• 1

This way you dont need to cut bits out of the cabinets, and it will be a lot stronger. Yes its more work, but it will be worth it.

Alternatively, use your plan above, with a big removable panel over the boiler corner (magnetic? balljoint clips?)

Why the blue void?

 

[ColJack]

CH pipes to kitchen rad and living room rad..

gas pipe to hob..

flat ducting for extract

sockets and cooker circuits.. the bricks are like iron and the plaster was falling off the wall anyway..

so I boxed it all in, it was easier and faster..

the cabinet I was originally going to put a 600 larder unit, a filler strip flat on the side and screw a door or 2 to this. closing above counter height in front of the boiler..

 

[ban-all-sheds]

so I boxed it all in, it was easier and faster..

Spooky - I'm doing the same, for virtually the same set of reasons.

Galvanised trunking about 30cm from the floor, conduit up the walls to sockets & switches. The plasterboard will be stopping just below worktop height to allow more room for appliances....

 

[ColJack]

do what I did then.. a layer of 12mm ply above the countertop.. makes hanging uppers a lot easier.. no need to find a stud or rely on naff plasterboard fixings..

I wouldn't bother with the trunking or conduit.. just surface clip it if you're leaving the bottom open..
you're dropping the CCC if you stick it in trunking and conduit..