Meter with two consumer-side connections

Joined
27 Nov 2016
Messages
21
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
The meter in our house has two set of tails coming from the consumer side of it (got worried when I first saw it until I ascertained they both came from that side). The two sets of tails actually connect into the meter itself; not through a junction box.

One set goes to the main CU, the other goes to a single, fused isolator switch for the shower circuit; effectively a single outlet CU I suppose. That was obviously added later (along with the shower) because there were no spare connections for another circuit in the very old CU.

First question: Is that even legal? It's all in old black and red wiring so it was done before that new set of regulations at least.

A little while ago we were told we needed a new meter because ours was old. An engineer came to change it, but saw the two sets of tails and said he could not continue because he would not be able to reconnect it like that.

Second question: Is that for a regulatory or meter rules reason, or just because he didn't want to and he could actually have done it? (I should have asked him to be clearer at the time)

At some point we will probably be told we're having a smart meter (don't want one, but such is life) and we might well have the same problem again. So...

Third question: Could the shower circuit tails be connected from shower isolator into the main CU (instead of the meter), where there are spaces on the busbars for the cables; there just isn't space for another fuse module. The existing shower fused isolation switch would still be in-circuit. Alternatively it might be possible to connect the tails into the main isolator switch, either inlet or outlet side. The existing second set of tails are long enough to reach either. I haven't pulled the cover off the main isolator yet (it's a 6-inch square metal box on its own) because, well, it's live!

Would the above be considered notifiable work? I'm not actually adding a new circuit or changing protection, I don't think.

Another alternative would be Henley blocks to split a single consumer-side tail from the meter to the two CUs. That's more difficult practically though as it would have to be coordinated with the meter-changing-person and I don't know how amenable he/she might be to me slowing them down while I muck about. Probably not very. Also - is that notifiable anyway?

I would consider getting an electrician in to change the whole CU for a new one and consolidate the two parts, it is ancient, but money is extremely tight. I'm quite capable skill-wise of doing it myself if it's not notifiable.

Just to be clear, if it's notifiable I'll not be doing it myself. Nor will I be doing anything with a live connection, especially not one capable of exploding my screwdriver. Life's short enough as it is ;)
 
Sponsored Links
Two tails into one meter terminal is shoddy and can cause real problems.
The meter guy was right.

The quick solution is for a Henley block to be inserted, but that's not a DIY job, it's not notifiable but requires the breaking of the suppliers seals and removal of the service fuse.

You need to find an electrician who is prepared to do this. Good luck.
 
Last edited:
Call your supplier (not the dno) and get them to fit an isolator switch. And only reconnect the main tails.
Then you can switch off safely and add a Henley block if you're confident to reconnect the shower.
Our supplier said it was about 60 quid to add a switch but I don't believe they ever added it to our bill!
 
Sponsored Links
I would save up, and upgrade your CU and add your shower into that. This will be better all round.

DS
 
Thank you all for the replies.

'shoddy' is too kind a word for the state some of this place is in; wiring and other aspects. I've always found it hard to believe, in the houses we've lived in, the state people leave the wiring in. I'm no professional (well, I'm an electronics engineer) but I could do a better job blindfolded than many of the DIY wiring jobs I've seen. I'm not even certain this one was DIY though, given that the seals are still sealed/resealed. Anyway...

Adding an isolator is a good idea. I came across that idea on another search just after I posted my OP. I might go for that if I can get them to fit it without charging too much. Would make life simpler.

As much as I would love to have a new CU, I would guess around £600 to have a sparks fit one (I'm NW, near Blackburn) and that's not do-able really unless absolutely essential; more so than the leaking wall I need to have rebuilt. Plus I'm not so sure the existing wiring would pass a decent sparks' pre-installation inspection, given what I've seen of it. It's certainly not up to current standards. I can slowly fix that myself as I work around the place but not quickly. So, unless someone was willing to just swap the CU regardless (and it can be notified/certified that way) then it's a no-go from that aspect too, for quite some time.

The CU... I've no idea how old but the fuses are cartridge types in simple holders that plug into the front of it (once the metal cover is opened with the thumbscrew). I would guess it's the original; house was built early sixties if I recall correctly.

A picture is worth a thousand words, which I just deleted and grabbed my phone instead:

View media item 98945
The additional shower isolator is just out of shot on the left; you can just see the edge of it (white) and the tails going towards it from the meter.
 
There seem to be five wires going to your meter, not the 6 I was expecting. Where is the other one?
 
There seem to be five wires going to your meter, not the 6 I was expecting. Where is the other one?
There'll be a neutral link going straight from the service head to the neutral terminal on the main switch, out of sight within the modular supply boxes. The meter doesn't use the neutral to measure energy consumption, but it does need it to function, same as any appliance. A bit non standard but fairly common. The slight oddness here is the meter being used as an ad hoc henley block to feed the neutral to the shower supply.
 
Last edited:
Have you checked the earthing is adequate and in place ?

DS
 
The meter doesn't use the neutral to measure energy consumption,

Rubbish. The meter measures watts and needs to know current, voltage, and phase angle. How can it determine voltage without a neutral connection?
 


They're very cute. I think FLameport doesn't have any like that.

I suspect the shower fitter and the meter changer both wanted to avoid having to work with the old stuff, they probably don't have metal-working skills, and so the fitter took the easy option of poking the wires into the meter.
 
Regarding the five vs. six wires into the meter, which I admit I only noticed myself when I took that picture...

I would guess that the meter's current winding is in series with the supply live wire, and hence needs two tails, in and out. The voltage coil needs a live and neutral and is in parallel with the supply, so only a single neutral tail into the meter is needed for that. The neutral for the switch will be straight from the supply within the boxes, as wundaboy said.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top