Two meters down to one

[JohnW2]

You can see in the ops photo they've connected one set of tails to the isolator leaving some of the installation powered up, and the op has the other set of tails.

Oh, if that's the case, I misinterpreted the photo. Yes, they clearly have connected tails to the load side of the isolator - and if they've connected them to one of the CU's, then I would say that they have done the most one could/should expect of them.

I thought that what the OP had in his hand was (seemingly rather amazingly!) the 'dangling ends' of the tails coming from the isolator.

Kind Regards, John

 

[westie101]

I wasnt at home, but they refused to reconnect the tails to the consumer units, leaving the house with no electric.

I think the OP has stated here that no tails were connected, he must have connected the pair that show in the isolator!

You are the one who is usually critical about blind adherence to 'books'/'rules'. Someone obviously felt qualified to remove tails from CU, move the meter, connect the meter to an isolator and connect a pair of outgoing tails to the isolator. In terms of common sense, it would not seem to much of a step for the same person to have also reconnected those tails to one of the CUs from which (s)he had disconnected the supply.

I have to say that, in the course of my few dealings with DNO personnel, they have always been very reasonable, very sensible and almost obsessive in their wish to not leave a customer without at least some power, whatever that took. ... but maybe I've just been lucky!

I don't disagree and have only given the reasons why I think they did not connect the tails (given the choice of two sets, which should they have connected?)
I would have expected better including the supply & fit of Henleys if they had them, but there was no obligation to do more than they did.

 

[JohnW2]

I don't disagree and have only given the reasons why I think they did not connect the tails (given the choice of two sets, which should they have connected?) ... I would have expected better including the supply & fit of Henleys if they had them, but there was no obligation to do more than they did.

Fair enough. Last time I interacted with DNO personnel (when my daughter's RCD blew up and took out the cutout fuse on a Saturday afternoon), I had this very conversation with the 'very nice man from the DNO' (over a cup of tea!). His attitude was that he would (at least personally) 'do whatever was necessary' to ensure that a customer was not without any electricity for an appreciable time - whether that involved bypassing a meter, obtaining a temporary supply from a nearby property, 'finding a generator' or whatever. I don't know to what extent any of that is true (or 'allowed') in general, but this chap clearly very much had the interests of the customer at heart - which was quite gratifying.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

... bypassing a meter ...

"Yes, that'll be fine. Could you just hang on while I get my camcorder to film you doing it?"

 

[JohnW2]

... bypassing a meter ...

"Yes, that'll be fine. Could you just hang on while I get my camcorder to film you doing it?"

I really don't think the chap I was talking to would mind being filmed doing that. He said that if a meter was 'dead' or dangerous, he would happily bypass it for a customer until such a time as 'whoever had the authority' turned up to replace the meter - and I think I believed him.

Kind Regards, John

 

[DanDIY]

Just to clarify a few points:

They didnt connect either set of CU tails to the switch. So they left the property safe, but with no electricity.

I had sent them a diagram before they came out (which they quoted the job from) which showed both meters connected after the switch. They quoted against this sketch and I paid them against this quote.

There was someone there all along who they could have asked which of the two to connect. If they had of said 'we can only connect one CU' we would certainly have opted for that option. CU1 feeds an empty flat. CU2 feeds the flat we live it with our fridge freezer etc. So I think even my missus would have been able to cinfirm that if asked


I think I will email the engineer and ask him to clarify. £191 for a supply fuse to isolator swap now seems a bit steep. I could accept it being a higher cost with the job being a bit 'out of the ordinary', but all their engineer has done is a bog standard switch swap, ignoring the bit of the job that was slightly unusual. Previous threads suggest that £50-£90 is the normal charge from the distributor to fit an isolator switch. To charge me more and then leave me having to finish the job myself is slightly annoying.

 

[DanDIY]

Where is a good place to get Henly blocks?

I assume from the name they must have been made by Henly originally?? Can you still get originals, or are they all copys now? I have read about some being better quality than others, as they seem pretty cheap, might as well treat myself to some decent quality ones.

 

[RF Lighting]

I prefer the henley ones. I get mine mail order from the fuse company. Unfortunately it's the weekend so it'll be Tuesday before they arrive now.

http://www.thefusecompany.com/fuses...-single-pole-neutral-or-connecting-blocks.php


They are a single pole unit, so you'll need two to do your job. Also you'll need a 3mm Allen key to do the terminals up.

I still do not think this is a DIY job though.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

OR - Plan B (a bit late now):

Use a larger enclosure for the isolator switch and put a couple of DIN rail distribution blocks inside.

 

[DanDIY]

I still do not think this is a DIY job though

Why is this? Is there something in particular to be carefull of?

Although I have never used these connectors before, it seems fairly straightforward. Coupled with the fact that I have my now isolator installed and I can safely isolate the supply before making the modifications it seems one of the easier jobs I have done.....am I missing something?

 

[AndyPRK]

Well you don't want a poor or loose connection as it could catch fire.

 

[JohnW2]

Well you don't want a poor or loose connection as it could catch fire.

Indeed you don't, but I don't think that's a very compelling reason for saying that it's not a DIY job - a 'poor or loose connection' on a final circuit could have similar consequences.

I'm reminded of the view of a retired 'old school' electrician which I heard many years ago (long before Part P or notification) - who felt that any work involving cable >2.5mm² was "non-DIY work "

Kind Regards, John

 

[DanDIY]

Hmmm.

I am aware that there is a lot of current going through the tails, therefore any bad workmanship, loose connections etc will have a much higher risk assosiated of fire. My approach would be to work carefully and double check all of my connections.

I realise that cutting the larger diameter multi core cable is more dificult. I need to be careful with any bends, not making them too tight and trimming the ends of the conductors after bending to get a square end.

Am I missing something huge that makes this job only capable of being done by a spark with 50 years experience.....still seems fairly simple if you respect the risks.

 

[JohnW2]

I am aware that there is a lot of current going through the tails, therefore any bad workmanship, loose connections etc will have a much higher risk assosiated of fire.

Higher than what? Pretty high currents go through the pull switch or isolator of, say, a 10.5 kW shower - but we don't usually see people jumping to say that this means that changing such an item is 'not a DIY job'!

Am I missing something huge that makes this job only capable of being done by a spark with 50 years experience.....still seems fairly simple if you respect the risks.

As I implied in my previous post, IMO you are not missing anything.

Kind Regards, John

 

[EFLImpudence]

I think the feeling may be that the consequences could be more dangerous (not just an MCB tripping) should something go wrong or a mistake be made.