5 Day Bricklaying courses, anyone been on one?

[carryoncamping]

I certainly upset you Mick. But no I am not p****d of with you as you say in your post, just trying to correct things a little. Yes I am a bricky.

Well chaps I started this topic, no offence was meant

I don't want to get personal, I'll say this I think this forum is a great place for discussion and answering queries. Trouble is, it worries me when even the 'pros' argue about what you should do! I think it boils down to there is frequently not just one solution to a problem. Don't forget Mick is now the proud owner of an extension all built by his own hands.

I feel I've had a number of "knock backs" already in my short time here in the forum, but what the heck! I probably haven't phrased my questions in the best way to inspire confidence.

I'm a bit puzzled as to how hard the pros think it is to lay foundations?

Here is a break down of what I intend to do to mark out footings etc. step by step:

I am Assuming I have the necessary planning permission BC etc. Plans have strip footings 600mm x200mm and for sake of argument it's a simple rectangular side extension.

Steps:
1. Inform BCO that I am commencing digging.

Measuring: I'll measure the outside perimeter of the footing first.
2. Measure on the existing house wall where the extension meets. The new cavity wall is 280mm wide so the trench will need to be 160mm wider on both sides of the bricks/blocks to make 600mm. Place a peg in ground against the wall (or fix string to wall with a bent screw/nail) and run string out several metres. Then get the 3:4:5 square (or equivalent) and hold against the wall and align the string so it is perpendicular to the wall, place a peg at far end. This gives me a nice square line to work from.

3. Measure the first wall dimension along that line and place a peg.

4. Place the square along the string and align. Then place another string perpendicular to the first and run out several metres.

5. Measure the second dimension of the wall.

6. And so on until i meet the wall again.

7. There is the possibility of compound error by taking measurements off measurements. So the alternative for the other two sides would be to measure from the other end of the wall and repeat steps 2-5. Hopefully the two ends should meet.

8. To double check everything is square measure the diagonals, they should be identical. And to triple check the diagonal is what it should be you can use pythagoras's therom SQR (a^2 +b^2) eg. If the dimensions are 2000mm x 3000mm the diagonal should be 3606mm.

9. I then need to mark out the inner perimeter 600mm parallel to the outer.

10. I've got quite good building ground as approx 700mm down you hit solid limestone bedrock. So I'll dig down to that level.

11. Once the trench is dug, I'll use a laser level to measure how level the trench bottom is (I could use the DPC as my reference and put the laser at that level. By holding a length of wood perpendicular to the trench bottom place a mark on the wood where the laser strikes. Move the wood around the trench especially the corners. If all is level the laser should interesect at exactly the same point. If not dig a bit more.

12. To make building upto DPC level simple without having to cut blocks etc. I'll take a vertical gauge down from the DPC. If my trench is 900mm deep from the DPC and I need at least 200m depth to the concrete that leaves approx 700m to fill with blocks. If the std block is 215mm in height
2 blocks will make 450 (i.e. 215x2 +10mm mortar x2). Then using 3 courses of engineering bricks (std 65mm+10mm mortar) build up to the DPC. i.e. 2 course of blocks and 3 course of bricks will make 675mm So I'll make the footing 225 deep. i.e. 225+675=900mm

13. One way to mark the fill level is to bang steel pegs (reinforcing bars) to the required concrete depth. (Double check the pegs with the laser level again. )

13. Inform BCO and have him check the footing are deep enough etc.

14. Order the ready Mix. Foundations generally use 1:3:6 I'll ask the BCO what mix he suggests as some ground conditions can affect concrete.

PHEW, I'm glad that's over. I'm writing this around midnight so I may have made a minor error in my calculations but I think all my logic is there. Hopefully I have shown I KNOW what I'm doing and not some 'DIYer from Hell'. Tawelfryn et al may do it differently, but if it works then that's all that matters.

I am simply trying to say that brick laying can be done by most people "all be it slowly" but if you have a simple bit of common sense then it isn't difficult.

I couldn't agree more Mick! If you have vertical and horizontal gauges, spirit level, laser level, Square, maybe even a homemade manometer, consistant mortar mix, pointing tool, string line, Bolster chisel, measuring tape, trowel, etc, etc and LOADS of time then I can't see how you can go wrong.

You made a grand job Mick and I'm proud of your gumption. Please don't stop posting, your first hand knowledge is invaluable.

Best wishes
CarryOn

 

[stives68]

Carryon,

There are a few VERY basic rules that will mean you simply CAN NOT have uneven joints or loose the level.

buy yourself some corner blocks from your local builders merchant and a good brick line.

you simply start at each corner and build those first. until you get a little more practice i suggest you build lets say 4 courses on your first corner, you then measure from the footing to the top of the last brick.

You then go to the second corner start laying your bricks until you get to the 4th corse again. measure the height again. You should be aiming to get the same height. If it isn't start again or if its only a few mm take off the last 2 rows and either increase or decrease the bed until you have the correct height.

Once you have done that you get your corner blocks and brick line and position the line at the top of the first brick on one of the corners and run the line the full length of the wall you are building and fit the second block. You then continue your stretcher bond working to the line.

If you do this, the bricks will all be level and in a dead straight line. Check for plumb with your level and ensure your corners are dead plumb before you start the stretcher bond though.

Use trench blocks also bellow ground. Saves a LOT of messing about. you can loose little discrepancies in level under the ground has it wont be seen, but make sure your facing brick is spot on at least 2 courses below the finished paving level so when you do come out it will be spot on.

Good luck

Mick.

i thought you set youre brickwork out when you where above ground below doesnt matter so much because its blockwork and it might not work guage because of openings best just to run bricks dry first coursethen he can open joints or close after setting door orother openings

 

[carryoncamping]

Hi Chaps,

Recently finished my "House Construction" bricklaying course with www.tradeskills4u.co.uk near Gatwick. I had a great time and was able to construct a small 'dwelling' with cavity wall+insulation, window and Catnic lintel.

The image below shows I'll need a LOT more practice but I don't think it's too bad for 4 days work having NEVER laid a brick before in my life.

I don't pretend you could build a house either with such a short course. But it certainly gave a big insight into the basic construction tecniques to comply with current building regs up to wall plate level.

 

[noseall]

Hi Chaps,

Recently finished my "House Construction" bricklaying course with www.tradeskills4u.co.uk near Gatwick. I had a great time and was able to construct a small 'dwelling' with cavity wall+insulation, window and Catnic lintel.

The image below shows I'll need a LOT more practice but I don't think it's too bad for 3 days work having NEVER laid a brick before in my life.

I don't pretend you could build a house either with such a short course. But it certainly gave a big insight into the basic construction tecniques to comply with current building regs up to wall plate level.

not bad considering the cobbled up variety of bricks you've had to use.

try and keep the dpc back from the edge of the bricks, by about 5mm. it wont show through pointing this way.

 

[NS215]

it may look ok to some but the bond goes totally astray after about 10 courses at the end where the 3/4 is ( and a piece ends up in the middle of the wall )and the blockwork is nowhere near gauge with the brickwork

 

[carryoncamping]

it may look ok to some but the bond goes totally astray after about 10 courses at the end where the 3/4 is ( and a piece ends up in the middle of the wall )and the blockwork is nowhere near gauge with the brickwork

Like I said I need lots more practice, if I was paying someone to build what I did I'd tell them to start again. The 3/4 bats in the middle was a silly lack of concentration at the end of a day of hard graft! I learned a lot by my mistakes, if I was to build the wall now it would be a lot better.

I agree with your observations, but I was never realisticly going to expect Hampton court after just 4 days.

 

[ModernMaterials]

"I don't think it's too bad" i dont either but you will be replacing that wooden window within one year, i guarantee it

 

[carryoncamping]

"... but you will be replacing that wooden window within one year, i guarantee it

Too late, the whole thing was torn down shortly after this picture was taken in preparation for our pier and flemmish bond wall. (In the end I concentrated on the pier and left the wall)

Piers are good practice for plumb, level and square. I managed to keep the diagonals the same (620mm) for all 7 courses. Loads more practice is required but I think a slight improvement can be seen in the five days.

BTW ALL bricks are reused hence some are covered in lime mortar. Of the new bricks I did use I managed to keep them clean.

Click image for larger shot.

 

[^woody^]

Did the instructor mention what was wrong with regards to tying the wall into the pier and about how to start the bond in flemish bond at wall ends and abutments??

 

[noseall]

Did the instructor mention what was wrong with regards to tying the wall into the pier and about how to start the bond in flemish bond at wall ends and abutments??

yeah................you need a queen clodger (closure).

 

[carryoncamping]

Did the instructor mention what was wrong with regards to tying the wall into the pier and about how to start the bond in flemish bond at wall ends and abutments??

Yes (and it would appear I took no notice! but I know where I went wrong).
If you look closely at the 1st course you will see a queen closer. The 2nd course should have had the two parallel strecher bricks inset into the pier. The wall was generally one big cock up, so in the end I decided to forget it and concentrate on the pier! (more like chimney ) and get practice with plumb,level and square.

 

[^woody^]

I would have tied the stretcher over by a quarter into the pier and started with a header on the alternate course. Closers don't go at the end of a wall

Incidently, does anybody use king, beveled or mitred closers nowadays? Normally a quarter and a tie wire does the trick. lol

 

[noseall]

IIncidently, does anybody use king, beveled or mitred closers nowadays? Normally a quarter and a tie wire does the trick. lol

tieing an internal pier into a single skin garage is normally a headache, so in this type of scenario, we go with the tie wire method