I have a cable coming from the wall from which a cooker was once connected to. Can I connect the hob directly to this cable via a junction box. What type of junction box.
6kw four ring hob (connection)
- Thread starter BOBAFETT
- Start date
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If the cable just pokes out of the plaster 
then fit a Cooker Connection Unit there, and then you can run your appliance cable into that.
It is a special big thing that you need due to the size of the cables. So it needs a deep box. It is usual to set the box into the wall.
The white cover comes off to expose the connections. there is a slot underneath for the cooker cable to go in.
then fit a Cooker Connection Unit there, and then you can run your appliance cable into that.
It is a special big thing that you need due to the size of the cables. So it needs a deep box. It is usual to set the box into the wall.
The white cover comes off to expose the connections. there is a slot underneath for the cooker cable to go in.
But will a 2,3kw hob run off this cable which at one time ran a cooker
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Have a look in your consumer unit (fusebox). Let us know what brand it is, if it contains fuses or MCBs; how many there are, and what they are marked. Next to the main switch there should be a label saying "Max load not to exceed... " 63A or 80A or 100A or something.
There should be a fuse or an MCB labelled "cooker". It should be marked "B32" or "30A" or something. As you have no cooker at the moment I hope it is switched off or the cable poking out othe wall is unsafe.
In the kitchen there should be a big switch marked "Cooker" (it might have a socket incorporated).
If the previous cooker was fed off the Socket Ring Circuit then no, it will not be adequate.
But it is quite likely that there is already a circuit for an electric cooker as I described.,
Let us know what you find.
p.s. Have you got an oven as well?
There should be a fuse or an MCB labelled "cooker". It should be marked "B32" or "30A" or something. As you have no cooker at the moment I hope it is switched off or the cable poking out othe wall is unsafe.
In the kitchen there should be a big switch marked "Cooker" (it might have a socket incorporated).
If the previous cooker was fed off the Socket Ring Circuit then no, it will not be adequate.
But it is quite likely that there is already a circuit for an electric cooker as I described.,
Let us know what you find.
p.s. Have you got an oven as well?
Sorry JohnD the hob is 6kw.
The consumer unit is a Crabtree Starbreaker.
The cooker cable coming out of the kitcken wall is coming from an RCD protected circuit (MCD B32). Which is switched off.
The main switch is 100A.
On the consumer unit there is a yellow test button and an on/off switch.
By this switch it says RCCB 63A 30mA.
I also have 2,3kw oven to connect.
Appreciate the help.
The consumer unit is a Crabtree Starbreaker.
The cooker cable coming out of the kitcken wall is coming from an RCD protected circuit (MCD B32). Which is switched off.
The main switch is 100A.
On the consumer unit there is a yellow test button and an on/off switch.
By this switch it says RCCB 63A 30mA.
I also have 2,3kw oven to connect.
Appreciate the help.
The hob uses about 26Amps max. The oven uses about 10amps max.
If you have sockets handy, I would be inclined to connect the oven to the socket circuit, with a 10Amp cartridge fuse, and connect the hob to the cooker circuit, using the new connector I mentioned earlier. I presume you have a big cooker switch or controller close to the cooker position. The existing 32A MCB is suitable. I would expect the cable on the cooker circuit to be 6mm sq.
If you have sockets handy, I would be inclined to connect the oven to the socket circuit, with a 10Amp cartridge fuse, and connect the hob to the cooker circuit, using the new connector I mentioned earlier. I presume you have a big cooker switch or controller close to the cooker position. The existing 32A MCB is suitable. I would expect the cable on the cooker circuit to be 6mm sq.
What do you mean by a 10Amp cartridge fuse. have you got a picture of one please.
Thanks for the help.
Just one more thing using the setup you've advised is there a chance with the max load of my Consumer unit that it will trip when other appliances are active in the house at the same time.
Cheers
Just one more thing using the setup you've advised is there a chance with the max load of my Consumer unit that it will trip when other appliances are active in the house at the same time.
Cheers
None of the above. Just regular stuff microwave, P.C, DVD, Amplifier, tv, washing machine....
Then no reason to suppose you will have an overload.
However you mention that your cooker is on the RCD. When it gets old it might start to have an earth leak which will be annoying. The MCB could be moved to the non-RCD side of your consumer unit by an electrician if this starts to happen.
However you mention that your cooker is on the RCD. When it gets old it might start to have an earth leak which will be annoying. The MCB could be moved to the non-RCD side of your consumer unit by an electrician if this starts to happen.
what is an an earth leak and what would be the tell tail signs, is it dangerous.
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