6mm cable rating??

[shugrover]

Pinned to the wall, outside, there is no easy way of routing the cable to the front apart from going round the outside, has fitted carpets throughout, with large sheets of wood for the floor.

 

[nozspark]

You really should either consider another route or use a cable that is suitable for outdoor use. Flat grey T&E is susceptable to damage from UV rays, water and impact. If you really have to go outside I would consider using SWA from your existing CU to another (new) CU in the kitchen and wire circuits as necessary.

This may not be the easiest or cheapest way, but it will be far better and safer than T&E.

 

[JohnD]

You could also use conduit or mini-trunking. This can be painted to tone with the walls (pref. before fixing to keep the paint off the brickwork).

If you must run it outside put it at a height where it will not get knocked and is not at eye level.

SWA is not easy to terminate correctly, especially if you are not used to it, and needs metal boxes at each end.

Or you could run it internally at ceiling/wall junction and conceal with coving. Or you could chase it into the walls if you are thinking of decorating soon. Or perhaps hire a small person to clamber under the floors.

 

[nozspark]

John -- you said previously in this thread that the OP should use 6mm for the Hob and 2.5 for the oven, I would not like to try and get that in conduit, you might get away with it in mini trunking (MT3), but it will end up looking CR@P.. hence the suggestion of SWA

 

[JohnD]

Good point. Conduit singles would be OK, though. Not very keen on any of the options.

 

[nozspark]

Could not agree more.. It sounds to me that this job is not really DIY and that an electrician should be called in.

 

[nozspark]

Anyway, what's wrong with a nice bit of 10mm 3C armour. My missus loves it

 

[RF Lighting]

Pyro?

 

[securespark]

The diversity for a cooker is 10A + (1/3 x Total Cooker Amps)

6.8Kw+3.8Kw = 10.6Kw Giving a current of 46 Amps @ 230V

After Diversity the Design Load for the cooker is 10+1/3x46 = 25.3Amps

6mm2 Cable is rated @ 32Amps

So well in access to what is required to supply the Hob and the oven together!!!

Seeing as we are slagging each other off regarding their mathematical conclusions, yours are off the mark, too.

The equation is: 1st 10A+ 30% of remainder + 5A for s/outlet.

 

[shugrover]

Wow, sorry for all this, it originally started out as a simple question!!!

Am going to run a length of 2.5mm through the house somewhere.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[miajanjua]

The diversity for a cooker is 10A + (1/3 x Total Cooker Amps)

6.8Kw+3.8Kw = 10.6Kw Giving a current of 46 Amps @ 230V

After Diversity the Design Load for the cooker is 10+1/3x46 = 25.3Amps

6mm2 Cable is rated @ 32Amps

So well in access to what is required to supply the Hob and the oven together!!!

Seeing as we are slagging each other off regarding their mathematical conclusions, yours are off the mark, too.

The equation is: 1st 10A+ 30% of remainder + 5A for s/outlet.

You are quite correct.

But then no one mentioned that he wanted a socket at the load end.
If he does require a socket/Switch for the hob then he will need a 4mm2 cable Radial for the Hob and it must be fed from a 30mA RCD!!!

The double oven will run on a 2.5mm2, even with a socket, but again must be fed from the 30mA RCD side of the CU if a socket/switch is fitted.

I would advise him that he calls in an spark, its not a DIY job any more.

 

[shugrover]

Hi, no sockets, just wall switches, 6mm for the hob, and as luck would have it, there was a disused immersion 2.5mm which was long enough to pull back from the old airing cupboard, drop down the wall in the kitchen to the switch for the oven.

 

[moose67]

I was searching the net for some info when I came upon this thread.

I felt compelled to sign up and express my utter disbeleif at 99% of the information offered up in here.

Could not agree more.. It sounds to me that this job is not really DIY and that an electrician should be called in.

Infact what you see above you is the 1% of good advice offered.

The whole reason Part P came about is because of idiots playing around with things that they don`t have the first clue about.

your 6mm will be fine

I`m just curious as to how you decided with you DIY knoweldge that this would be safe, and above all, comply with regulations ?

The sooner that DIY electrics is outlawed the sooner peoples lives will be put at less of a risk.

My advice to any of you that has been messing with your home electrics would be ........
......................to buy some Some smoke detectors, do not get any ideas above your stations by trying to fit some mains powered ones, just keep it simple( and safe), and buy some battery fed ones

That is all !

 

[davelx]

It is better not to apply much diversity to domestic cookers, because at times (e.g. cooking Christmas dinner) you will have all the rings and oven full on. When you first turn them on they use full current until they reach temperature and the thermostats start to cycle.

When did you last cook Christmas dinner? It would be very unusual to turn all the rings and oven on from cold at the same time. Perhaps next Xmas you could put a clamp meter on your tails and record a graph of current against time, at 1 minute intervals, from the time Mrs D starts cooking until dinner is served. I think you will be surprised.

 

[ColJack]

if you don't like it, don't come here.. simples..

you have no proof that TopTrumper is not a fully qualified electrician or that he has not had years of experience installing supplies for cookers..


6mm T+E is good for 47A clipped direct according to table 4D5 in the regs and providing it isn't de-rated along it's run by insulation or other factors

After diversity the load would be 10+ ( 0.3 x 36) = 20.8A..