7 dead PIRs on Accenta G4

[kazgaz]

Morning guys

Went to bed last night and tried set my alarm on Prog 2 for downstairs only but came up with a setting fault on the first PIR in the hall. I then realised that all 7 PIRs on the system were dead, no LEDs light on the front of any of the PIRs when movement is detected.

Went into Walk Test in engineer mode and all 7 PIRs are registering as activated.

Not yet had the panel open but I'm guessing the 12v supply for the PIRs has gone down. Is this protected by a fuse? Gotta go to work now so it'll probably be later when I can get the panel open.

Alarm was installed by myself 6 yrs ago. The only other anomaly we had was last Saturday when the alarm triggered whilst in day mode! I replaced the back up battery as it was due a change and it was working fine up until I tried to set it last night.

As ever, any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers.

 

[musszzy]

Yes there is a small fuse for the pir supply. Should be a simple fix depending on why the fuse blew.

 

[kazgaz]

Thanks musszzy! I take it its one of these fuses then?

 

[musszzy]

Should be f4

 

[kazgaz]

Hi musszzy

It is a blown fuse, but it's F2. Just got to order some 20mm 1amp anti surge fuses.

eBay beckons..........

Thanks again musszzy!

 

[musszzy]

No problem... Wasn't very clear which one supplied pir power. Hit the thanks button if you check back in. Ta

 

[kazgaz]

All working fine now with replacement fuse.

 

[kazgaz]

Ok, spoke too soon. It's popped the same fuse again. I noticed that all PIRs were dead again. Promptly replaced the dud fuse and I noted that when I inserted it onto the main panel board, my SD1 autodialler beeped. Don't know whether this was coincidence but I'm now thinking I need to start disconnecting either PIRs or the autodialler to see if it's one of the devices taking out the fuse.

Would this be a good thing to do?

Cheers!

 

[kazgaz]

Hi guys,

Still got issues with my alarm system. Following on from my previous post, I disconnected the wiring from the auto dialler to see if this would stop the F2 fuse blowing. I thought that if by removing one device at a time I would find the fault. This lasted for approximately two weeks where the alarm system worked perfectly. A few days ago the F2 fuse on the panel blew again which took out the 7 PIR detectors. I again replaced the F2 fuse, and it was ok for 24 hours until this morning. Whilst in day mode the alarm sounded. I typed in the code as normal to silence the alarm. It was at this point I noticed the LCD remote keypad showing as per the picture enclosed. Even though the display was showing these lines the alarm system seemed to be still working ok as in I could type in the code to set the alarm and it would set as normal. I powered down the alarm system to reset the remote keypads. Once it was back up and working I went into the event log part of the LCD keypad and noticed that when the alarm sounded this morning it says it was the loop tamper. Which tamper circuit is this exactly? Is it the PIR sensor tamper, remote keypad tamper or the bell box tamper?

Thanks again guys in advance.

 

[kazgaz]

 

[musszzy]

Not sure
if this panel reports separate tamper. If I was you then disconnect everything and loop out tamper and zones. Also loop out bell tamper and then run it for a while see if it the actual panel causing the fuse fault. Then add bell followed slowly by each device. Eventually you will find the fault . . . . And a working system.

 

[Handymanjo]

PCB

There are four fuses mounted on the circuit board, all are 20mm anti-surge.

1. F1 1.6A-toprotectthepositive(+Ve)lineof12Vbattery
   
   
2. F2 1A - to protect the Speaker 13V supply
   
   
3. F3 1A - to protect the Siren (Bell) & Strobe supply
   
   
4. F4 1A - to protect the RKP 13V supply
   
   Have you checked the internal speaker ?
   You could do as muzzy says and link out all devices,but leave the speaker connected and then set the alarm and trigger the system by causing a tamper on the control panel lid to set off the alarm to see if speaker is faulty and blows fuse.
   If you have multimeter ,meter speaker for ohms.
   Speaker could be 32ohms or 16 ohms.
   You will have to start isolating items to determine fault
   

 

[kazgaz]

Hi again Musszzy

I agree, but that could potentially takes months to do. I'm seriously considering cutting my losses and getting a new panel but different manufacturer. I'm fast losing all confidence in Accenta panels. I seem to be reading lots of negative posts about them!

Is there such a panel when you have individual tamper circuits on individual zones?

It seems the quality of these panels has nosedived.

Cheers!

 

[kazgaz]

Hi Handymanjo

I'll give that a try. Certainly a good shout. I'll wait till the kids are in bed. Bit hectic here atm.

 

[sparkymarka]

Would check two things,speaker as suggested and bellbox if it's old, possible corrosion on pcb or faulty strobe