8mm control tap/ valve needed

[AstonHill]

That's because as it clearly say 'end feed fitting'

What dose that mean; are any of the 2 ends supposed to be soldered onto the pipe

Don't think it will bother you but you never ever use soldered fittings on oil lines
Always mechanical joint preferably flared.

Why not?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

What dose that mean; are any of the 2 ends supposed to be soldered onto the pipe

Solder ring, means the fitting includes a ring of solder, all you do is clean up the copper, add flux, then heat the joint until the solder flows.

End feed, have no ring of solder, you do as above, but feed the stick of solder, into the edge of the fitting, whist heating it.

 

[AstonHill]

End feed, have no ring of solder, you do as above, but feed the stick of solder, into the edge of the fitting, whist heating it.

I still dont get it though! how do you get the stick of solder to fit inside the very tight gap once the fitting is over the pipe

 

[Exedon]

From the outside! Capillary action!

 

[oilhead]

For the small continuous flows that are needed on such a heater, a Toby type valve as used on vaporising cookers or fires is the most reliable solution, but that would require a positive head to the feed. That would either be by gravity, or maybe a small electric pump as used in many marine applications.
Do you know what flow rate you need? Using waste oil I suspect it would be of varying viscosities and would not be very succesful in very low throughputs. The waste oil heaters I have seen are comparative beasts in workshops and the like, many times bigger than a domestic woodburner.

 

[Exedon]

Why not?

Try the idea of a fire around the joint above the melting point of solder?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Do you know what flow rate you need? Using waste oil I suspect it would be of varying viscosities and would not be very succesful in very low throughputs. The waste oil heaters I have seen are comparative beasts in workshops and the like, many times bigger than a domestic woodburner.

They use a spray type atomiser, fed from high pressure pumps.

 

[AstonHill]

From the outside! Capillary action!

I have no idea on your point or what you are refering to

 

[AstonHill]

For the small continuous flows that are needed on such a heater, a Toby type valve as used on vaporising cookers or fires is the most reliable solution,

I do not know what this is and can not find any info on it; please could you add more info

but that would require a positive head to the feed.

What dose this mean?

That would either be by gravity, or maybe a small electric pump as used in many marine applications.

I am using a 12V on demand fuel pump. commonly used in rally cars

Do you know what flow rate you need?

No idea! but I think the pump will be up to the job on bough ends

Using waste oil I suspect it would be of varying viscosities and would not be very succesful in very low throughputs.

Hah good point!
You put though gear oil and get noting to very little then you put though brake fluid and it comes out as fast as water

The waste oil heaters I have seen are comparative beasts in workshops and the like, many times bigger than a domestic woodburner.

But those waster oil burner do not have a flue system and are incredibly dangurus to one health
**** ass companies like Machine Mart (CROCKS!!!) have now stopped selling them because they dont need customers any more they now have slaves

 

[AstonHill]

Try the idea of a fire around the joint above the melting point of solder?

Please read the whole thread and in particular to why the original posted control vale dose not need to be fire proof

I must ask at this point? where an earth would you find an oil burner with hot fuel that you would regulate?

 

[AstonHill]

They use a spray type atomiser, fed from high pressure pumps.

Then they must have jets on the end all of the to over complecate and over charge you of cource
Mine is as simple as I can make it, so its drip feed with a tap that you have to control and no thermosatic and solenoid

But I am still wondering where i could get an 8mm gate vale tap from, as the fire tap in question hear is 10mm bore. which means a good part of the tap when valve open will have no effect as the pipe in question is 8mm defeting the object

 

[bernardgreen]

I do not know what this is and can not find any info on it; please could you add more info

Try google for information on a Toby valve,

Mine is as simple as I can make it

You can make it very simple by ignoring the necessary safety devices

so its drip feed with a tap that you have to control

if you fall asleep who will operate the tap to control the flow of oil.

Is this thread a wind up or a potential burn down ?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

if you fall asleep who will operate the tap to control the flow of oil.

Is this thread a wind up or a potential burn down ?

Exactly, and why I suggested that the flow needs to be carefully metered, so it cannot get out of control - if the same measured quantity is fed to the fire, irrespective of temperature or how thick the oil might be.

 

[AstonHill]

Try google for information on a Toby valve,

I did and I still somewhat confused to what it is!
Ignoring the **** off of the regular ebay and amazon, the shops all states its 22mm which is not a control valve for fuel as stated before

toby valve, - Google Search

Unless natural gas I guess

You can make it very simple by ignoring the necessary safety devices

And what necessary safety devices are needed hear that i am ignoring (I fell we will be going round in circles again though)

if you fall asleep who will operate the tap to control the flow of oil.

Right; so this is supposed to run over night and be more stable then a coal fire.

I am considering installing a thermocoupler incase the fire goes out; but are you refering to it to much oil coming out? is there some kind of shut off valve i can install if temprature or flow becomes to much

Is this thread a wind up or a potential burn down ?

Hello BurnardGreenWoodJunior, not seen you around hear for a while now! how are the wokesters on the electric forum doing? John and Sunny

 

[AstonHill]

Exactly, and why I suggested that the flow needs to be carefully metered, so it cannot get out of control - if the same measured quantity is fed to the fire, irrespective of temperature or how thick the oil might be.

But the control valve will meter the flow and controlled by the opperator. As to variants in temperature and viscosity is irrelivent and dose not apply since the oil in the bottle will remain the same until the bottle is empety