8mm Router Shank Issues

[AThurlow]

Hi all

I have owned a Black & Decker router for a while for the odd DIY job. I now want to rebate some oak to replace a door casing so needed to buy a suitable rebate bit. Just been to the local stores & only found 1/4 & 1/2 inch shank bits where's all the bits supplied with my router are 8mm. Can anyone tell me if there are any adapters available to enable me to use a 1/4 inch bit or will it be an online shop for an 8mm shank bit?

Cheers

Adam

 

[nickjb]

8mm bits are fairly readily available but nearly as common as 1/4". My first choice would be to buy an 8mm as bigger is generally better.

If you do want to use a 1/4" the you might get a reducer for £10 or so or it would be better to get a 1/4" collet for your router (which will hold the bit better than a reducer). Are you sure it didn't come with one?

 

[AThurlow]

Thanks Nick, found a 1/4 collet at my local, think that's going to make life easier.

Cheers

Adam

 

[big-all]

another advantage off 8mm is the depth off pass

your maximum should be half the shank per pass or 3.2 for a 1/4" and 4mm for a 8mm

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

another advantage off 8mm is the depth off pass

your maximum should be half the shank per pass or 3.2 for a 1/4" and 4mm for a 8mm

Interesting rule off thumb big all

 

[big-all]

another advantage off 8mm is the depth off pass

your maximum should be half the shank per pass or 3.2 for a 1/4" and 4mm for a 8mm

Interesting rule off thumb big all

not hard and fast but a good guide on 43mm worktops it lets you know that 7 passes are ideal
of course many shaped cutter will be fine in one pass
and a 7x7mm rebate can be done in one pass on a 1/4" shank
its more to do with guide line polished up with practice and common sense

 

[AThurlow]

Now I've got my shank issue sorted can any of you guys give me some hints please? I'm looking to rebate a length of oak to make a door casing. The door's 35mm thick so I've worked out I need to put a 35mm wide, 15mm deep rebate in the wood for the casing. I've had a practise run & while not too bad I had real issues working out how to cut the rebate in the ends of the horizontal part of the casing (where the sides of the casing will slot in). Is it bad practise to rebate across the grain or would you use a saw?

 

[AThurlow]

One more thing.....when using the router on the wood, I've got the wood clamped down but that means I have to stop half way along the wood, move the clamps, then do the other half. Whenever I do that though I seem to get marks on the wood where the bit has taken a mm or 2 too much out. Is there any way of starting/stopping half way & keeping a clean cut or is that just practice?

Cheers

Adam

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

how much will that leave to fix the screws in, after youv'e rebated and sunk the hinges in ? whats wrong with an applied stop?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I'm looking to rebate a length of oak to make a door casing. The door's 35mm thick so I've worked out I need to put a 35mm wide, 15mm deep rebate in the wood for the casing.

Personally I wouldn't bother. Getting consistent quality on such a large rebate (for a small router) is a real hassle. I'd go for HWWs suggeston of planted stops which are much easier and faster to install than rebates, not to mention being more forgiving if the need arisews to rehang old/existing doors where it may be necessary to bend the casing around a (warped) door to get a good fit. That can't be done anywhere near as easily with a rebated casing

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

HI Job and knock youv'e been gone some time

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Hiya HWW

Yep, been a tad busy......

 

[AThurlow]

Thanks for the advice fellas, had a bash at the rebate (started before I saw the last couple of posts). Turned out pretty well but like you said, very time consuming - will definitely go with your advice and try a stopper on the next frame (9 more to do as and when I can afford the timber!). I'll try and attach a photo to show you how I got on.....

 

[AThurlow]

Untitled

• AThurlow
• 18 Oct 2012
• 1