Routing out 3" lock with jig and router

[frank999]

Ok today I went to fit a 3" lock in a door, I had bought all the gear to do the job - simple, so I thought ...

Bought:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-erb380rou-2100w-router-230-240v/81664
It is a 1/4" & 1/2" capable 2100W Plunge Router with 16 and 30mm bushes included.

I also bought this:
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+Tool+Accessories/d80/Router+Jigs/sd220/Lock+Jig/p57391
It is a lock jig, which the instructions tell you requires a 16mm guide bush used with a 12.7mm straight cutter ...

First question: the 1/2" Straight cutter wont fit through the Routers 16mm Bushing hole (see image below) ??

Second question: how to do you get the 3" depth - I am advised to use a 1/2" cutter for deep cutting - but cant see available and 1/2"'ers deeper that 63mm.

This is the cutter bought for the job - but wouldn't fit ...
http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-straight-router-cutter-shank-12-7-x-63mm/39994
and was advised by the manufacturer of the jig to use a 'Auger Bit' to get below the 63mm to the 3" (76mm or so):
http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-straight-router-cutter-shank-12-7-x-63mm/39994
But I think the 6mm would be long enough anyway (didn't open the packet to find out)

The opening on the included bushing is just under 12mm, so where do you buy router bits that are 76mm long and the cutting blades fit through this 12mm - I have looked at other suppliers - and cant see anything. Or is the bushing wrong ??

 

[joe-90]

I've got the same router, and as far as I know the 16mm bush is just for 1/4 shanks. Cutting at a depth of 3 inches is never going to work. You'd need a 4 inch cutter that would wobble all over the shop. Just use decent flat drill bits and a chisel, like you've done all your career. That's what I do.

 

[frank999]

LOL, yes I have done it many times with a chisel, and I hate doing it that way ...
The manufacturer of the jig though is spec'ing a 16mm bush with a 1/2" straight cutter (and its also an Erbauer cutter), so I'm just lost why it wont fit, there must be 16mm bushes and 1/2" cutters that work together, according to Unika ...

It has to be a 1/2" - or as you say it would wobble - or worst break and embed itself somewhere ...

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Are you sure that it's a 1/2in (12.7mm) cutter that's required and not a 12mm one? I use the Trend jigs and they always seem to pair 16mm guide bushes with 12mm cutters - which is tight, but it will work - although their LOCK/JIG uses a 30mm guide bush with a 12mm cutter. As to depth of cut you are limited by the length of cutter and the plunge depth of the router (circa 75mm for my DW625). On the Trend jigs I use Wealden deep pocket cutters but even there there is a depth of cut limit and I often have to finish the last bit deeper locks with an auger bit and a chisel

 

[London Mike 49]

A while ago I did a short locksmith course and this was recommended for locks , especially if you do them on a regular basis;

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Souber DBB Morticer Jig
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Souber DBB Morticer Jig

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DESCRIPTION

• Souber DBB Morticer Jig

• The DBB Morticer is designed to accurately mortice lock cases every time

• Used by locksmiths and builders to cut the mortice body and face plate and with the addition of a plunging cutter this allows quick installation of tubular latches, deadbolts and concealed door closers

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• Carbide wood cutters designed to increase cutting speeds by up to 50% and to keep their sharpness

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• Vertical guides, height and depth stops mean that you cannot overrun the cut area

• Kit includes self centring jig, carbide cutters CWB19 (19mm), CWB22 (22.2mm) and CWB25 (25.4mm)

• Drill requirements - 13mm (1/2") chuck 2,000 - 3,000rpm

• Standard shaft depth - 90mm (100mm without stop)

• Long shaft depth - 170mm (180mm without stop) ordered separately

• Door thickness - 55mm

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[JohnD]

good depth. I had a Chubb 3J60 fitted a while ago, which is very long. I had expected the joiner to use a router, but he used a spade bit and chisel. I suppose it is unusual to need such a deep mortice. He did chisel it out very neatly.

Looking at the illustration, is he using an ordinary hand drill, rather than a router?

 

[joe-90]

I often use one of these as a self centering drill guide. The guide legs can go past the base and either side of the door edge - so self centres. Cheap as chips.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminste...pfxQBHXh3qPu4xVjiDstoEEBONQvIp2plMaAq538P8HAQ