A long shot maybe

[EddieM]

Indeed, as I said. In fact, do you really have 9 LEDs which all need to be independently controlled? On a full-sized car, virtually all of the lights come on in pairs (or even triplets). If your '9' include any pairs (or triplets) which always come on together, then you could reduce the number of pins even further.
Fair enough - that's rather more dramatically 'off-road' than I had envisaged

Kind Regards, John

Again, a good shout, so thinking further only 4 (sets) need to be independently controlled. So perhaps now down to a min of 5 pins.

 

[JohnW2]

Again, a good shout, so thinking further only 4 (sets) need to be independently controlled. So perhaps now down to a min of 5 pins.

That sounds more like my real car - and it sounds as if your search for what you need may have become dramatically more simple/realistic (5 pins is a lot easier than 18, even for small and waterproof ).

Kind Regards, John

 

[endecotp]

Hirose LF series circular connectors are 13mm diameter for the smaller ones, but the 20 way is 20mm diameter I believe.
Digikey stock them.

 

[JohnW2]

Hirose LF series circular connectors are 13mm diameter for the smaller ones, but the 20 way is 20mm diameter I believe.

I think we've got him down to 5-way now, which ought to be child's play

Kind Regards, John

 

[EddieM]

I think we've got him down to 5-way now, which ought to be child's play

Kind Regards, John

Not quite, your allusion to a "proper" car is a bit complicated by the fact that the shell/chassis (Not that it has one as such) aren't at a negative or indeed any potential, nor will be, as it's not conductive.

 

[EddieM]

I think we've got him down to 5-way now, which ought to be child's play

Kind Regards, John

Not quite child's play, it might sound like it, but it's worth several times the amount my real car is worth

 

[JohnW2]

Not quite, your allusion to a "proper" car is a bit complicated by the fact that the shell/chassis (Not that it has one as such) aren't at a negative or indeed any potential, nor will be, as it's not conductive.

You don't to need a 'chassis' (or any other metallic part of the car/model) as a conductor - your 'fifth pin' (and the wires connected to it) provides the common connection to all the LEDs.

The "child's play" I was referring to is the sourcing of a suitable (now 5-pin) plug/socket - not necessarily the installation of the wiring system!

Kind Regards, John

 

[EddieM]

You don't to need a 'chassis' (or any other metallic part of the car/model) as a conductor - your 'fifth pin' (and the wires connected to it) provides the common connection to all the LEDs.

The "child's play" I was referring to is the sourcing of a suitable (now 5-pin) plug/socket - not necessarily the installation of the wiring system!

Kind Regards, John

Indeed, but from a logistic POV without a common negative, I have to join 9 wires (in a 5 pin) to a common pin somehow. Of course that could be agreggated down viz 3 in a 7 pin.

 

[JohnW2]

Indeed, but from a logistic POV without a common negative, I have to join 9 wires (in a 5 pin) to a common pin somehow. Of course that could be agreggated down viz 3 in a 7 pin.

Connect just one wire to the 'common' pin of the socket, and then 'split' that into however many wires you need (something between 4 and 9, depending on convenience/configuration) to connect to the LEDs.

Kind Regards, John

 

[EddieM]

Connect just one wire to the 'common' pin of the socket, and then 'split' that into however many wires you need (something between 4 and 9, depending on convenience/configuration) to connect to the LEDs.

Kind Regards, John

No, far too much of a mess. it's ok though John, thank you for alternative insights, very useful, the very tedious details / execution are now down to me.

 

[JohnW2]

No, far too much of a mess. it's ok though John, thank you for alternative insights, very useful, the very tedious details / execution are now down to me.

The 'mess' will not be visible, because it will be hidden away somewhere (just like the incredibly complicated/'messy' wiring in a real car). Something like ...

Kind Regards, John

 

[EddieM]

The 'mess' will not be visible, because it will be hidden away somewhere (just like the incredibly complicated/'messy' wiring in a real car). Something like ...
View attachment 183199

Kind Regards, John

Yes, I fully understand that, the splices will be the problem, there is nowhere to neatly hide them, especially bearing in mind they have to be waterproof, but no matter, it is merely an implementation problem.

 

[endecotp]

Those Hirose connectors are shielded, so you may be able to connect all your commons to the shield.

 

[JohnW2]

Yes, I fully understand that, the splices will be the problem, there is nowhere to neatly hide them, especially bearing in mind they have to be waterproof, but no matter, it is merely an implementation problem.

Fair enough, but I don't really understand why they can't be hidden (just as they are very largely hidden in a full-size car) - does this model car perhaps have a transparent body?

With the sort of voltages you are talking about, waterproofing of the joints (which would be easy enough, anyway) is not really an issue, even with sea water around.

Kind Regards, John

 

[EddieM]

Those Hirose connectors are shielded, so you may be able to connect all your commons to the shield.

I will take a look. The biggest problem (self inflicted I admit) is the cosmetics.