Adding Inhibitor to F/E Tank

[darkcloud154]

Having successfully cleaned, drained and refilled my system I managed to get the system working

I just need to add the Inhibitor now. I did not add it has I refilled due to our system being more prone to airlocks and needed draining to get some of the rads downstairs to work - I don't want to mess with it now.

I thought maybe the best way to add it now was to tie up the ball valve in the F/E tank and take out some water, but make sure it doesn't fall below the feed pipe level, add inhibitor, and then fill by releasing the ball valve, this way there is less chance of inhibitor just sitting at the bottom of the tank, and no chance of airlocks.

Does this make sense?

 

[75pete]

Yes this will over time get the inhibitor into the system. You can also buy a kit from you diy store that puts the inhibitor in via a rad bleed.

 

[D_Hailsham]

Yes this will over time get the inhibitor into the system. You can also buy a kit from you diy store that puts the inhibitor in via a rad bleed.

But the inhibitor could sit in the F/E tank for ages and not be doing anything to protect the system and feeding via a bleed valve can be messy.

After you have put the inhibitor in the F/E tank and refilled it, you need to shut off the supply to the F/E tank, drain down until the level in the F/E tank is just above the outlet, then turn the water back on. This will get the inhibitor into the system and being circulated. It is worth keeping a small amount of inhibitor back to go into the F/E tank just before you turn the water back on, so it is not just plain water. You only need 1% of the volume of water in the tank, so you need about 50cc.

I hope you have cleaned all the muck out of the bottom of the F/E tank; you don't want that getting into the system and ruining all your hard work.