I am dividing a room in two and would like to add a separate light fitting and switch. I have wiring from the 1960s. The light switch already there has only a red and black (no earth) which runs to a junction box which is inaccessible. The red is permanently live. The fitting has a red and black with an earth taped up and none of the the wires is permanently live. Is there any way I can fit a separate light fitting and switch from this set up. I have tried various configurations but all that seems to happen is the light dims on one side when I operate the switch.
Adding new light fitting to 60s wiring
- Thread starter petermac
- Start date
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Does the fitting you are installing require an earth?
As you stated "earth taped up?" I assume it does require an earth connection. So bearing that in mind the answer to your question " Is there any way I can fit a separate light fitting and switch from this set up? The answer would be no!
If the light was not requiring an earth connection and the requirements regarding RCD protection were fulfilled, then there would be a method to add another light!
As you stated "earth taped up?" I assume it does require an earth connection. So bearing that in mind the answer to your question " Is there any way I can fit a separate light fitting and switch from this set up? The answer would be no!
If the light was not requiring an earth connection and the requirements regarding RCD protection were fulfilled, then there would be a method to add another light!
No earth = rewiring long overdue.
Hacking one room into two is the ideal time to have it done.
Doing anything else is a dangerous bodge.
Hacking one room into two is the ideal time to have it done.
Doing anything else is a dangerous bodge.
Thanks for the reply, I am only fitting a plastic pendant fitting that doesn`t need an earth. When I said the earth was taped up, it is bent back up the cable and taped to it. If you could let me know how to wire it I would be grateful.
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Doesn't matter what you are fitting - it can't be fitted.
A new light will require a permanent line and a neutral.
No permanent line at the existing light = no use for connecting another one.
No neutral at the switch = no use for connecting a light there either.
Concealed inaccessible junction box = no way to fix the above problems.
Even if you could use the above items to power another light, there are yet more problems:
There is no RCD, so this means cables on the surface only.
No earth, so no metal fittings and no metal backboxes - therefore surface plastic box for the light switch.
Wires with earth taped up - indicates that some incompetant fool has already been at it, probably causing a stack of other problems.
It's rewire or nothing.
A new light will require a permanent line and a neutral.
No permanent line at the existing light = no use for connecting another one.
No neutral at the switch = no use for connecting a light there either.
Concealed inaccessible junction box = no way to fix the above problems.
Even if you could use the above items to power another light, there are yet more problems:
There is no RCD, so this means cables on the surface only.
No earth, so no metal fittings and no metal backboxes - therefore surface plastic box for the light switch.
Wires with earth taped up - indicates that some incompetant fool has already been at it, probably causing a stack of other problems.
It's rewire or nothing.
An update, all the other light fittings in the house have an earth, it only seems to be this one. Also there was a fluorscent tube fitting connected to this wiring I am not sure if this makes a difference. Could this be the last fitting on the circuit.
Do you know how to test for continuity? If so do that prior to assuming there is CPC/earth continuity.
But you will still require RCD protection or as flameport has posted surface mounted cables.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/8.4.1.htm
Last one connected, does not mean last one on circuit! Again continuity test r1+r2 would give you the last point of circuit and it has little bearing on your problem.
You will need to lift the floor above the ceiling, trace a LNE from the lighting circuit junction box or rose and extend that on to the new light position. Then you need to run a cable between the light and the switch location.
It might be better to look at the other lights in area, say the hall light to see if any of the lights have the LNE at the fitting, if none do you may find there's a central junction under the floor serving all lights for the grd.
If you keep to plastic switches, plastic faceplate screws and simple pendant lighting the earthing isn't critical.
Some will argue it is life and death, but I'd suspect they have forgotten that maybe 40% of all housing stock doesn't have earths on the lighting circuits.
Same with the RCD, It is a regulatoryl requirement on new installations, and add on to circuits, but can be avoided if you keep the cable over 50mm from the surface. That isn't a hard task in a floor void, and might not be a problem if the switch cable drops in to a wall void.
I'll put the flame proof suit on, because it's very likely that I'll be roasted by the righteous who would condone my suggests as being not to current spec.
They would be right, but then again as mentioned maybe 70% of all houses must be due a fire, death by electrocution all because they aren't to 17th ed current regs.
It might be better to look at the other lights in area, say the hall light to see if any of the lights have the LNE at the fitting, if none do you may find there's a central junction under the floor serving all lights for the grd.
If you keep to plastic switches, plastic faceplate screws and simple pendant lighting the earthing isn't critical.
Some will argue it is life and death, but I'd suspect they have forgotten that maybe 40% of all housing stock doesn't have earths on the lighting circuits.
Same with the RCD, It is a regulatoryl requirement on new installations, and add on to circuits, but can be avoided if you keep the cable over 50mm from the surface. That isn't a hard task in a floor void, and might not be a problem if the switch cable drops in to a wall void.
I'll put the flame proof suit on, because it's very likely that I'll be roasted by the righteous who would condone my suggests as being not to current spec.
They would be right, but then again as mentioned maybe 70% of all houses must be due a fire, death by electrocution all because they aren't to 17th ed current regs.
If you can install switch drops at depth of at least 50mm and it's not a stud wall, you must also comply to approved document A for chasing depths.
No more than 1/3rd of leaf/walls depth for vertical chases and 1/6th on the horizontal.
No more than 1/3rd of leaf/walls depth for vertical chases and 1/6th on the horizontal.
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