Adding Sockets Extending Ring

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I am looking to add two double sockets and a FCU (connecting to a single socket).

The double sockets will be used for the TV, digibox etc. The FCU and single socket will be used for an electric fire (2kw)

Is it possible for me to extend the existing ring as described on this article?


I have previously added spurs (old house) but wondered the advantages/disadvantages of extending the ring using existing sockets?

The house was built in 2016 and has a 32a breaker for the downstairs sockets (12 double sockets).

Thanks for any advice
 
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I am looking to add two double sockets and a FCU (connecting to a single socket).
The double sockets will be used for the TV, digibox etc. The FCU and single socket will be used for an electric fire (2kw)
Why do you want an FCU for a single socket for an electric fire.

Is it possible for me to extend the existing ring as described on this article?
Yes, of course it is.

I have previously added spurs (old house) but wondered the advantages/disadvantages of extending the ring using existing sockets?
I would say it depends purely on the location of the existing and new accessories(sockets) and route of the cable(s).

If the new 'ring' cables have to travel to the new sockets and back to the existing socket along the same route, then a 'ring' is pointless.


Post a rough diagram of the positions.

The house was built in 2016 and has a 32a breaker for the downstairs sockets (12 double sockets).
It will also need an RCD covering the new sockets.
 
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The electric fire will be inbuilt so it isn't a FCU but an isolation switch.

Diagram attached hopefully it will make things clearer.

Blue - Existing Sockets
Green - New Sockets
Red - Isolation Switch
 

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The electric fire will be inbuilt so it isn't a FCU but an isolation switch.
Ok.

That looks just like extending the ring would be just as well:
1655930352352.png


2.5mm² T&E throughout.

You must stay vertical or horizontal from the sockets -
so I presume your bottom line comes up from below the floor and a junction box can be used with the black route.
One of these:https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASJ803.html

EDIT Just realised the JB is probably not needed as you can replace the left side bottom cable with new longer black route cable

OR

Use the red route depending on where is best to chase the wall.

The spur to the fire socket could go under the floor as well.
 
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That's great thanks for your help.

The walls are dot and dab so hopefully I can feed the new cables though the gaps.

I am building a media wall (wooden frame and plasterboard). The electric fire will be fitted in to this.
 
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To comply with regulations (not law) the loop impedance must be low enough to open the overload within a set time, the MCB is two devices in one, and the magnetic part of a B type MCB is between 3 to 5 times the current rating of the thermal part, and if you exceed the loop impedance permitted by even a small amount it can mean minutes rather than milliseconds to open the trip. There is also the volt drop to consider, so to follow the rules you need expensive equipment.

It may well be your well within the limits, and with RCD protection it is not as important as it was, but if you want to be within the rules you need to inspect and test, and it is less likely you will exceed the limits using FCU to using MCB's.

I am sure many fit extra sockets without testing and trust to the lord, but you asked.
 
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The electric fire will be inbuilt so it isn't a FCU but an isolation switch.

Diagram attached hopefully it will make things clearer.

Blue - Existing Sockets
Green - New Sockets
Red - Isolation Switch
Use a switch then not a FCU.
 
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