...adding spurs?

[tuk]

edit: pics updated..

hi, ...had some work done by a spark,

on the right side of chimney, he added a double socket to the existing dbl socket and also a wall light, I want to do the same( another double & wall light) to the left side of the chimney where there is also an existing dsocket

he seems to have used a different wiring method from what iv seen online...adding spurs etc, so I would like to make sure its safe before copying his work

right chimney(spark)

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• tuk
• 5 Mar 2011
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left chimney(to do)

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• tuk
• 5 Mar 2011
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also, & if It's safe to copy his work, the mains wire isn't long enough to stretch to a second box like in the top pic ...what would be the right way to do this

ps the brick in the wall is solid ..there are already cavity's for 2 doubles and a light switch...if more chiseling can be avoided the better

thanks,

 

[electronicsuk]

Is the switch in your first picture (sparks work) really just a switch, or is it a switched FCU? If it's the former, what he's done is unsafe and will need rectifying. Photos would help.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Looks like your sparky has extended the socket circuit not a spur.
Can you confirm, if the light switch indicated is a switch or a switched fused spur?
And if you could, that is what I would do with the work you are prossing.

 

[tuk]

thnx for replies, got probs with my cam ..will post a better diagram when i get another look at the switch..

 

[tuk]

new pics with more detail,

right chimney(spark)

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• tuk
• 5 Mar 2011
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left chimney(to do)

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• tuk
• 5 Mar 2011
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to add another question ..is there a reason why he's taken the switch/spur off the faraway box and not the nearer one

 

[Chri5]

to add another question ..is there a reason why he's taken the switch/spur off the faraway box and not the nearer one

What he did was fine, I take it the f/spur is 3 amp ?

As for why take from the furthest, no obvious answer maybe it was to do with cable access...

You can copy his and it's your choice which socket the new light via f/spur starts from.

 

[tuk]

knew i forget something.. it's 13amp

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Seems a bit odd, that the spur for lights were taken from the second fitting.
Does the spur cable between the socket and FCU go down and under the floor, what distances are between the accessories?
The work you propose to do, would be very much like the work done on the right side of chimney.
Extend the circuit if you can, taking a leg from the existing socket to your new socket, then a cable link between new and existing socket.
The spur can then be taken from either socket outlet but the most logical and practical one is the nearest.
Remember all cables should be the same CSA as the ones currently installed.
The FCU should be down fused to an appropiate rating and the cable size between FCU and light accessories can be reduced to either 1.5mm or 1.00.

 

[xr4x4]

knew i forget something.. it's 13amp

Has it actually got a 13 amp fuse? Have you popped the fuse out to check?

I have seen it a few times, people get lazy and fit the fcu but don't change the fuse.

 

[xr4x4]

Double post

 

[tuk]

Does the spur cable between the socket and FCU go down and under the floor, what distances are between the accessories?

no the spur cable runs inside the wall, along the top of the skirting

light
|

1.4m

|
FCU ----- 1.7m ----- sockets

sockets are 1-2" apart

Extend the circuit if you can, taking a leg from the existing socket to your new socket

whats the best way to join the existing ring cable to the new extended cable?

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• tuk
• 5 Mar 2011
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--------------

The FCU should be down fused to an appropiate rating and the cable size between FCU and light accessories can be reduced to either 1.5mm or 1.00.

I have a roll of:
twin & earth
2.5mm2
max rating 230v/27amps/bs6004

looks like he's used the same(2.5mm): fcu-->light ..socket-->fcu ..and when he extended the socket ring

can 2.5mm be used for everything or should i use a lighter gauge between the fcu and the light?

Has it actually got a 13 amp fuse? Have you popped the fuse out to check?

yeh, i unscrewed it and checked

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

The best way to extend the cable, is to put a new unbroken length in between the feed socket(previuos socket in circuit were the cable is coming from that you wish to extend) and the new socket.
Other than that, the joint must be accessible. How deep are the back boxes, sometimes the joint can be made within them.
Using 2.5mm beyond the FCU to the light circuit accessories will be okay, but sometimes can be difficult to terminate in the terminals if you get more than one core in the connection.
So is the existing cable to the accessories on the right hand side of chimney burried in the wall of surface mounted above the skirts?
The reasom I ask is it could well be installed outside a permitted safe zone.
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:installation_techniques:walls

 

[tuk]

How deep are the back boxes, sometimes the joint can be made within them.

25mm

So is the existing cable to the accessories on the right hand side of chimney burried in the wall or surface mounted above the skirts?
The reasom I ask is it could well be installed outside a permitted safe zone.
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:installation_techniques:walls[/QUOTE]


it's buried in the wall(..at least it will be) ...cos hes taken the spur from the faraway socket..the cable is a bit lower than it has to be..making it just outside the 'safe zone' ...I'l move it to the nearer socket..so the spur is almost inline with the socket instead of below it..+ avoids crossing over the ring cable coming up from the FB

looks just like it does in this pic..spur cable runs about 2" below the sockets

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• tuk
• 5 Mar 2011
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[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I'l move it to the nearer socket..so the spur is almost inline with the socket instead of below it..+ avoids crossing over the ring cable coming up from the FB

Good idea, that's what I would do.

 

[tuk]

got b&q in the morn, & looking at the different options to make the join....

if using a choc-box(in back-box) to join/extend the ring, what rating should the choc be, Im guessing if the 2.5mm ext. cable is rated at 27amps the choc needs to be the same or greater..opinions on this seem to range from 20-30amps ..so I thought I should ask

also, it might turn out I need a deeper backbox to do this, means taking at least another 10mm off the brickwork(...last resort) ..I see soldering the join is another option and might take up less space ...anyone have a link to a decent guide that shows how to do this properly? ..including the shrink wrap etc..