Additions to Kitchen Ring Main (Diagram)

[Hobobanobo]

Hi,

So in the image below is one side of my kitchen.
It is all on one circuit currently, assuming attached in the ceiling as drawn.
The blue sockets are in place, the green is proposed. I want to end up with at least 2 counter plugs and a hidden plug by the side/behind of the fridge.

The cables are all burried and under wall units so cant be removed fully. This is my issue. How do I extend this circuit from the ISO switch to add the other sockets. Is there a way to use wagos etc in the switch to extend the cables through the new twin socket, and then feed back?

I have two options I think.

Extend the ring somehow but buried cables makes this tricky.

or I swap the switch for a twin socket. And spur a switch (assumed it needs to be Fused here) below counter which then feeds the fridge and Dryer with a spured twin socket off this FCU?
Most of the cables are in place with this scenario. Just not sure if allowed.

Or like this?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Use cable that can take the current and you won't need the fuse.

 

[Murdochcat]

Best avoid putting sockets behind white goods

 

[Hobobanobo]

Use cable that can take the current and you won't need the fuse.

I see.. now that looks a lot easier. I do happen to have a giant rather expensive roll of 4 or 6mm T&E that I bought for a tiny job behind oven thinking ill never get a chance to use it again.
But given its a vented dryer, will the twin spur be ok to handle the load of the American fridge freezer and vented dryer? Is it all in the cable then I suppose, I assumed I needed an FCU or at least an ISO for vented on a twin. But if a twin socket with switches and 4mm is ok then I may look into that option. I suppose the appliances are fused too.
If its 6mm I have is that still ok?

 

[Hobobanobo]

Best avoid putting sockets behind white goods

True, especially if no iso switch in view.
Its just handy as there is already a single socket buried into the wall behind the dryer to make use of. And my bricks are rock solid so less drilling the better.
I could always have it behind the fridge as I can reach it without pulling either appliance out then.
But the dryer weight is next to nothing so its not hard to pull out in seconds if I need to switch off at the wall.

 

[EFLImpudence]

But given its a vented dryer, will the twin spur be ok to handle the load f the American fridge freezer and vented dryer?

Yes.

If its 6mm I have is that still ok?

If it will fit into the socket.

 

[Hobobanobo]

Yes.

If it will fit into the socket.

This is music to my ears. Thank you. I do struggle to get gromits to fit with this cable though. But I suppose it is going to be static so I will do what I can with what I have at hand.

So this whole have ISO sockets in view above counter for anything like dryers etc is not needed? I'm sure this is always drilled into everyone I speak to about it. I guess the dryer can be moved easily so not an issue.

 

[EFLImpudence]

So this whole have ISO sockets in view above counter for anything like dryers etc is not needed?

Not by the regulations; it's up to you but you would need one that can handle the current; i.e. 32A of the ring or 26A of the plug fuses if only two.

I'm sure this is always drilled into everyone I speak to about it. I guess the dryer can be moved easily so not an issue.

Again, it's up to you.

 

[ericmark]

Theory, practice, and regulations are not the same. As @EFLImpudence says is correct, I would add you do need to test, is it actually a ring final. With power off, if a ring final, testing between lines, neutrals, and earths should show continuity, and should be tested, however, I will hold up my hands, and admit when I moved in here I did not have the test gear required, but still fitted extra sockets, and I think most people do.

Odd but daughter's house is wired in 4 mm² as 32 amp radials, built around 1980s, but last two houses and this one, all use ring finals and built around the same time.