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Advice on cladding and insulating single skin workshop

Discussion in 'Building' started by linus1, 7 Feb 2020.

  1. linus1

    linus1

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    Hi All,

    I recently had a single skin concrete block (pretty sure its concrete block!) workshop built at the end of my garden, it was built on a concrete slab base and it spans the full width of my garden.

    I now want to insulate and weather protect it. my next steps are broadly 3 parts....
    1) Weather protect and clad part of the exterior
    2) Insulate the roof
    3) depending on how 1 and 2 go, I might insulate the internal walls

    I'm hoping for some advice please on all 3 points, in terms of methods and materials. I've been reading a lot online and there are lots of different thoughts and recommendations. I need to balance this with the fact it is a workshop/storage area and not habitable.

    1) Weather protect and clad part of the exterior - The front is really the only fully exposed wall, and also the only visible wall. My thinking here is to use 'No Nonsense Water Repellent Seal Clear' and a pressure sprayer (e.g. SX-CS5) on the front and sides of the building (the rear is inaccessible and built up against a fence). I would then like to clad the front for both aesthetics and additional protection, probably using 175mm or 200mm wide feather edge boards (and may stain for aesthetics), and would build a batten frame (probably 22mm or 38mm depth) with verticals every 60cm or so. How would I best attach the frame to the brickwork - concrete screws, frame fixings? There seem to be so any different methods and I've baffled myself with all of the various Hammerfix fixings! And then how best to attach the cladding to the frame - I'm assuming galvanised nails? And could I skip applying water repellent to the blocks if I've putting cladding over the top (maybe just protect the battens with some damp proof instead)?

    2) Insulate the roof - The roof is OSB with a rubberised cover. There is some mould forming on the internal side of the OSB, I think due to some leaks in the brickwork which have now been fixed. My thoughts here are to remove the mould (looking into various solutions, any recommendations?), and to then put insulation between the rafters and board up with plywood. Then paint the plywood white, probably with anti-mould or masonry paint. I'm torn between the insulation to use, again I don't want to spend a fortune on what is just a workshop/storage room. I was wondering about using Knauf Eko Roll (100mm) because it would be easy to cut to size (the distance between the rafters varies from 35cm to 40cm), although I think the intended purpose of this is for under floor. I've also looked at Rockwool - the boards (RWA45) would be easiest to use but would also result in a fair amount of waste I think.

    3) Insulate the internal walls - this is further down the line, but I'd use timber battens (with a strip of damp proof between wall and batten), board with plywood and use a to-be-decided insulation between wall and plywood. I'd maybe paint both sides of the plywood.

    Any help or input would be appreciated, particularly on materials and methods! :)
    IMG_20200204_120308.jpg IMG_20200204_120247.jpg IMG_20200204_140816.jpg
     
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  3. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    Problems with cladding the exterior are that you have not allowed for it with the eaves projection, or window set back.

    No need for vDPM on the inside if cladding is providing the rain screen to the wall.

    You will need a vapour check layer at ceiling level and to fully insulate the roof void, leaving no gaps.
     
  4. endecotp

    endecotp

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    Is there any heating?
     
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