Advice on Flat Plate Switches and Sockets

Joined
19 Mar 2003
Messages
172
Reaction score
1
Country
United Kingdom
Good Afternoon!

We're in the process of redecorating our hall, stairs and landing and SWMBO has decided we "need" brushed chrome flat plate switches and sockets. There are 2 single switched sockets and 3 light switches (1 x one gang, 1 x two gang and 1 x three gang).

We've had a look on the Screwfix website and narrowed it down to the LAP or Crabtree models:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-13a-1...-plate-brushed-chrome-with-white-insert/73307

http://www.screwfix.com/p/crabtree-1g-dp-sw-skt-wht-ins-brushed-chrome/39803

All the cables come from above and we have 25 mm back boxes which I know is going to be a squeeze.

I assume the slimmer the workings the easier these will be to install?

My main concern is ease of installation.

The Crabtree models are twice the price of the LAP - is it worth paying the extra or are there any other makes we should consider that would be easier to install?


Thank you
 
Sponsored Links
Don't even try it. Most flatplate fittings leave no room for cables in a 25mm box, especially if it is a socket with a spur off it.
If it's very tight then you'll not be able to get the front plate screwed on properly and that will look awful. Also there's a real risk of pressing the cables behind the accessory with risk of shorting.

Also flat plate fittings only look great if the Walls are 100% flat.
 
Don't even try it. Most flatplate fittings leave no room for cables in a 25mm box, especially if it is a socket with a spur off it.
If it's very tight then you'll not be able to get the front plate screwed on properly and that will look awful. Also there's a real risk of pressing the cables behind the accessory with risk of shorting.

Also flat plate fittings only look great if the Walls are 100% flat.
Or knacker the back box in the process of trying :( I second everything TTC says about the idea.
 
As said, don't waste your time or money on these if you don't have space in the back boxes.

Some of the screwless accessories can also prove to be a nightmare if you need to remove the front cover. You may have to prise it off with a screwdriver which may damage the wall.

Some faceplates are larger than the standard ones, which may be a problem if you have two or more accessories butted together.

Some flat plate accessories are so chunky they don't even allow room to level up if the flush back box is out of alignment.

Save yourself time and effort by getting a range that isn't so flat.
 
Sponsored Links
Thanks for the advice guys - I knew it wouldn't be straightforward :eek:

At the risk of sounding ungrateful - is it a big job is it to sink deeper boxes (35mm?) into the wall?

The walls are all block so I assume I:

1) Turn power off and remove existing socket and back box.

2) Drill a load of 10 mm holes in the wall.

3) Chisel remainder of block out

4) Fix deeper backbox, replace socket and reconnect

Sounds easy(ish) - have I overlooked something?


Thank you
 
Sounds easy, you need to get the cables out of the way as well, to prevent damage whilst drills, chisels and hammers are at work.
Don't forget the grommets neither and all the remedial work I have no doubt will be involved.
 
It's not so easy. You'll need to chop out enough space to allow the cables to pull through the grommetted holes (probably ½ Inch. Also the box will be held in with the plaster and cement render from when the wall was finished. So for each socket you'll have a refilling/plastering job folded by redecorating. if you don't do it really well then the sockets will not sit flat on your hilly fillerwork and will look pants.
Will it really be worth the effort?
 
It does all sound like a lot of effort.

But if you insist on having these things it may be worth trying to fit a few before chasing anything out.

Remember, the 25 mm boxes will quite possibly be a good few mm below the surface of the finished plaster, so this may give valuable wiring space.

Carefully arrange the wires in the box for them to fit neatly. Don't be tempted to shorten the wires.

The switches boxes may have unused fixing lugs at the top and bottom. You can bend these back if they are in the way.

There's no real advantage to the flat plate stuff though - I don't think it looks any better.
 
The Crabtree models are twice the price of the LAP - is it worth paying the extra or are there any other makes we should consider that would be easier to install?

One of these brands is just a better known brand of far eastern sh**te......however, being screwless products, some of the insert depth will be countered by the increased depth in the faceplate, and judging by what you are intending to install....25mm back boxes should be sufficient.

Choice out of those 2 offerings would be Crabtree..
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top