I have now convert my open vent heating system to 2 x 2port
(S-Plan) system and have also added the 22 mm vent pipe that loop
back into the Expansion tank. The loop height is 450 mm above the level
of the water in the tank. The vent pipe just end about 120 mm above the
level as suggested in an article.
Now the 22 mm hot water pipe comes from the boiler in the kitchen in the
front of the house. Then this pipes comes out at the back room in an airing
cup board. from the floor i have added 2 tees, the first to the vent pipe
and the second one for the cold water feed into the system.
Then there is pump and after that there is tee for automatic by pass
valve and further tee for Hot water and heating. Both has 2 port valves.
The hot water then goes to hot water cylinder and also has bottled air trap.
The other side after the 2 port valve there is tee for the radiators and
a pipe goes up to certain height and end up with cap with screw type cap
for bleeding air.
Electrically I have got fused switch that feed the honeywell clock seperatly
from the terminal box. Therefore this enabled me to disconnect the live
from the terminal box to disable the boiler and pump altogether.
The pump is is connected to "Over Run" signal from the boiler.
This enabled me to check the 2 x 2 port valve operation.
I then connected the pump live wire to live from the switch directly stil
avoiding the connection to the terminal box. This enabled me to run pump
continuely with cold water in the system.
I bleeded radiators and other air traps including the pump. It seemed
all OK and left it for a little while.
The made all the connections and I seemed functining fine.
But unfortunately there was a watr leak at one tee.
I HAVE TO DRAIN THE SYSTEM AGAIN AND RE-SOLDERED THE JOINT.
FILLED UP THE SYSTEM AND SWITCH ON THE HEATING AND HOT WATER.
BLEEDED THE SYSTEM AGAIN BUT I HEAR GURGLING NOISE AROUND
THE SYSEM IN THE AIRING CUP BOARD.
THE BOILER DOES NOT RUN SMOOTHLY AS IT FIRES AND AFTER A
MINUTE SWITCHES OFF AS IT IS GETTING OVER HEATED.
SO THERE MUST BE SOME WHERE AIR LOCK.
WHAT IS BEST WAY TO FILL THE SYSTEM TO AVOID THIS?
IS THE ANY PROPER PROCEDURE?
(S-Plan) system and have also added the 22 mm vent pipe that loop
back into the Expansion tank. The loop height is 450 mm above the level
of the water in the tank. The vent pipe just end about 120 mm above the
level as suggested in an article.
Now the 22 mm hot water pipe comes from the boiler in the kitchen in the
front of the house. Then this pipes comes out at the back room in an airing
cup board. from the floor i have added 2 tees, the first to the vent pipe
and the second one for the cold water feed into the system.
Then there is pump and after that there is tee for automatic by pass
valve and further tee for Hot water and heating. Both has 2 port valves.
The hot water then goes to hot water cylinder and also has bottled air trap.
The other side after the 2 port valve there is tee for the radiators and
a pipe goes up to certain height and end up with cap with screw type cap
for bleeding air.
Electrically I have got fused switch that feed the honeywell clock seperatly
from the terminal box. Therefore this enabled me to disconnect the live
from the terminal box to disable the boiler and pump altogether.
The pump is is connected to "Over Run" signal from the boiler.
This enabled me to check the 2 x 2 port valve operation.
I then connected the pump live wire to live from the switch directly stil
avoiding the connection to the terminal box. This enabled me to run pump
continuely with cold water in the system.
I bleeded radiators and other air traps including the pump. It seemed
all OK and left it for a little while.
The made all the connections and I seemed functining fine.
But unfortunately there was a watr leak at one tee.
I HAVE TO DRAIN THE SYSTEM AGAIN AND RE-SOLDERED THE JOINT.
FILLED UP THE SYSTEM AND SWITCH ON THE HEATING AND HOT WATER.
BLEEDED THE SYSTEM AGAIN BUT I HEAR GURGLING NOISE AROUND
THE SYSEM IN THE AIRING CUP BOARD.
THE BOILER DOES NOT RUN SMOOTHLY AS IT FIRES AND AFTER A
MINUTE SWITCHES OFF AS IT IS GETTING OVER HEATED.
SO THERE MUST BE SOME WHERE AIR LOCK.
WHAT IS BEST WAY TO FILL THE SYSTEM TO AVOID THIS?
IS THE ANY PROPER PROCEDURE?
