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I've done both to be honest, but i prefer to tile around it. I get the shape I need, by making an individual template shape, cut out of "thin" card, and the shape then marked onto each tile. Just cut out the shape to the mark.
If you specifically want to cut around the pan, then use a decent continuous edged diamond blade in an angle grinder. Use a template as Roughcaster suggests. Having said that, in my opinion, cutting around the pan is not the best way to go - it takes longer and doesn't look as neat. Tile the floor, position the pan and run a bead of silicone around the pan and it'll not move (no need for screws).
tile the whole floor, sit the toilet on it, mark the holes through the bottom of toilet with thin pencil onto the ceramic tiles, remove the toilet, drill the holes at the desired angle, replace toilet & screw the toliet down securely, thin bead of silicone around the bottom...done!
a quality masonry bit will go through ceramic tiles if a diamond bit is out of the question
thats the proper way of doing it & looks a damn sight neater IMO
I know that and you know that Paul. However, there're people reading these posts that don't realise the difference between regular ceramic and porcelain so it's generally a good idea to spell that out.
A decent masonry bit is fine for regular ceramic tiles but for porcelain you're going to need a diamond bit.
My mate did this on a refit and the customer held back £150 of his money for not screwing the pan down.
He explained that the silicone was strong enough but the guy was having none of it.
Had to be fixed to the floor in the end (the customer is always right) and from then on he fixed all the toilets with fixings and silicone.
yeah I've seen a few dodgy sealed toilet pans not solid fixed, always screw in or you'll regret it when the toilet moves & a big leak starts or even worse your pan connector slips & you end up with raw sewage all over your bathroom floor
I know that and you know that Paul. However, there're people reading these posts that don't realise the difference between regular ceramic and porcelain so it's generally a good idea to spell that out.
A decent masonry bit is fine for regular ceramic tiles but for porcelain you're going to need a diamond bit.
yeah I've seen a few dodgy sealed toilet pans not solid fixed, always screw in or you'll regret it when the toilet moves & a big leak starts or even worse your pan connector slips & you end up with raw sewage all over your bathroom floor
If your tiles and pan are clean and you silicone the pan down it will not move under normal use. If you have seen a pan move that has been properly siliconed down, then the force required to move this pan would have undoubtably broken the pan if it was screwed down. Resulting in the same sheite all over the place.
saw an 8 yr old child squeezing between a bath & toilet to reach the windowsill & pushed the toilet over against the wall, water everywhere plus a broken tile on the wall.
maybe it wasn't siliconed 'properly'
in my professional opinion, toilets have 2 screw holes on the underside or the rear of the base for a purpose & this is for fixing securely. Any toilet that breaks say in the instance above is very poorly made
saw an 8 yr old child squeezing between a bath & toilet to reach the windowsill & pushed the toilet over against the wall, water everywhere plus a broken tile on the wall.
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