advice - which radiator valve/connector do I need?

[greenmug]

Hi everyone

I'm inthe process of replacing a small radiator
Wickes Single Universal Radiator 600 x 500mm

Our old radiator is quite old and the fittings look a little different.

Can someone here help me choose what I'll need to connect it up.

I've attached some pictures that show the connection thats in place already, the connection on the radiator.

DO I need something like this from B&Q?
http://nextday.diy.com/app/jsp/product/productPage.jsp?productId=17552

I don't really want to take the valve off as I don't want to drain the system. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Pictures show the radiaot I'm adding, the connection on the radiator (thread inside), and the current valve on the wall at the moment.

Thanks.

Untitled

• greenmug
• 10 May 2009
• 1

Untitled

• greenmug
• 10 May 2009
• 1

Untitled

• greenmug
• 10 May 2009
• 1

 

[mogget]

Welcome to the midnight plumbing forum

If the pipe spacings are correct, probably the easiest thing to do is to remove the valve tails from the old radiator, and put them on the new one. They undo with a huge allen key.

Make sure you use ptfe tape when putting them back in.

If the new rad is narrower than the old one, you'll need the tail extender that you posted the link for.

 

[danielp]

it looks like you have 10 mm pipe going to it get a normal angled radiator valve with a compression joint that is 10 mm

 

[greenmug]

Welcome to the midnight plumbing forum

If the pipe spacings are correct, probably the easiest thing to do is to remove the valve tails from the old radiator, and put them on the new one. They undo with a huge allen key.

Make sure you use ptfe tape when putting them back in.

If the new rad is narrower than the old one, you'll need the tail extender that you posted the link for.

Thanks, I'll go look at the old radiator (currently outside now)
cheers

 

[greenmug]

it looks like you have 10 mm pipe going to it get a normal angled radiator valve with a compression joint that is 10 mm

Thanks - I had thought about just replacing the whole valve as you mentioned, with a brand new one that fitted the radiator.

Something like this:
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Obsolete-Radiator-Valves/Radiator-Lockshield-Valve/invt/421551

But I'll need to get one that is 10mm for the water pipe coming in. My only question is, if I take the old one off, do I need to turn my water off? How do I stop the water coming through while I fit the new valve? I've heard people say drain the system, but I wanted to avoid the extra work We have a traditional boiler system (Thorn Apollo boiler) with a header tank (I think thats what its called) in the loft.

 

[advancedplumber]

looking at that radiator valve its looks knackered to me. the thing that packs up on rad valve is the packing glands, after years of being installed and u go to do a bit of maintainance like taking the rad off the wall for painting etc, then as u turn the valves on and off the packing gland starts to pass water. the way around not draining the whole system is to deliberately air lock the system. u can get a rubber plug set from any good supplier . ram the plug into the outlet of the small tank and plug the expansion pipe (the pipe at the small heating feed tank that goes up and over and hangs just above that tank like a shepards crock). open the rad valve where ur changing the new rad into a bucket and when the water dies down then the air lock has been made. it will dribble a bit but its enough to take the main pressure away. you r asking the supplier for a new bullnose rad valve with a 10mm pipe connection. they may only have a standard on with an adaptor set, in which case u with have to cut the old nut and ring off to fit the new valve. get a roll of ptfe. rap the ptfe tape in the same direction is u will be screwing the tail of the valve into the radiator. also get a tub of boss white and apply it around the compression nuts and the face between the valve and the valve tail and don't over tightenfor a leak free joint.

 

[greenmug]

looking at that radiator valve its looks knackered to me. the thing that packs up on rad valve is the packing glands, after years of being installed and u go to do a bit of maintainance like taking the rad off the wall for painting etc, then as u turn the valves on and off the packing gland starts to pass water. the way around not draining the whole system is to deliberately air lock the system. u can get a rubber plug set from any good supplier . ram the plug into the outlet of the small tank and plug the expansion pipe (the pipe at the small heating feed tank that goes up and over and hangs just above that tank like a shepards crock). open the rad valve where ur changing the new rad into a bucket and when the water dies down then the air lock has been made. it will dribble a bit but its enough to take the main pressure away. you r asking the supplier for a new bullnose rad valve with a 10mm pipe connection. they may only have a standard on with an adaptor set, in which case u with have to cut the old nut and ring off to fit the new valve. get a roll of ptfe. rap the ptfe tape in the same direction is u will be screwing the tail of the valve into the radiator. also get a tub of boss white and apply it around the compression nuts and the face between the valve and the valve tail and don't over tightenfor a leak free joint.

You've all been very helpful. Many thanks indeed!!
I'll head over to my hardware shop now and pick up a bullnose rad valve (10mm) and a rubber plug set and some boss white (I have the ptfe already)

 

[greenmug]

looking at that radiator valve its looks knackered to me. the thing that packs up on rad valve is the packing glands, after years of being installed and u go to do a bit of maintainance like taking the rad off the wall for painting etc, then as u turn the valves on and off the packing gland starts to pass water. the way around not draining the whole system is to deliberately air lock the system. u can get a rubber plug set from any good supplier . ram the plug into the outlet of the small tank and plug the expansion pipe (the pipe at the small heating feed tank that goes up and over and hangs just above that tank like a shepards crock). open the rad valve where ur changing the new rad into a bucket and when the water dies down then the air lock has been made. it will dribble a bit but its enough to take the main pressure away. you r asking the supplier for a new bullnose rad valve with a 10mm pipe connection. they may only have a standard on with an adaptor set, in which case u with have to cut the old nut and ring off to fit the new valve. get a roll of ptfe. rap the ptfe tape in the same direction is u will be screwing the tail of the valve into the radiator. also get a tub of boss white and apply it around the compression nuts and the face between the valve and the valve tail and don't over tightenfor a leak free joint.

You've all been very helpful. Many thanks indeed!!
I'll head over to my hardware shop now and pick up a bullnose rad valve (10mm) and a rubber plug set and some boss white (I have the ptfe already)

I started the job this afternoon having got all the pieces I needed. Although having cut the pipe, I found it was 8mm and I only had 10mm valves. So have had to pop the old one back on for now, minus the radiator. I did notice that the pipe has been bent quite a bit already and it was difficult to get a new olive back on the pipe. Any ideas? I must admit I'm concerned that when I fit the 8mm valve tomorrow it will leak.

Btw, is there such a thing as a flexible 8mm pipe, like the ones I noticed around my house on the 15mm water pipes (used on the toilet and water taps I noticed)


thanks in advance.

 

[kevplumb]

push or tap the valve on first it well re round the pipe

might be worth a smear of jointing compound on the olive as well