Advice with Rcd fuse box set out

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My fuse board is set up as follows
32amp..cooker and upstairs sockets/....32amp loft sockets/....32amp kitchen appliance sockets/....6amp up stairs light/....6amp down stairs lights/....6amp..smoke alarms loft lights/....6amp..house alarm/...32amp downstairs sockets ....the problem I'm having is I've got an induction hob to fit ,the 32amp cooker and upstairs sockets has a cooker switch on the wall in the kitchen which also have 2 single non switched sockets about 150mm above the floor ,the cooker is plugged into one ,would the other be ok to power the induction hob, the cable in the switch is at least 6mm
 
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Well - IF the Cooker and Upstairs sockets ARE on the same circuit then NO.

Are there two or three wires connected to the MCB.
Can we have picture of inside the CU. TURN OFF POWER at the Main Switch and remember the supply to Main switch will still be live

Which dimension of the cable is 6mm?
 
And is your loft a ring final or a 4mm supply to have a 32a breaker. Not being sarky just concerned your install is ok.
 
And no matter which circuit is which...
...also have 2 single non switched sockets about 150mm above the floor ,the cooker is plugged into one ,would the other be ok to power the induction hob,
Absolutely no way - you cannot plug an induction hob in.
 
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And no matter which circuit is which...
...also have 2 single non switched sockets about 150mm above the floor ,the cooker is plugged into one ,would the other be ok to power the induction hob,
Absolutely no way - you cannot plug an induction hob in.

I wasn't going to plug it in I was wondering if the spare socket would be able to power it by a spur type connection :oops: i Should have made it a bit clearer
 
Well - IF the Cooker and Upstairs sockets ARE on the same circuit then NO.

Are there two or three wires connected to the MCB.
Can we have picture of inside the CU. TURN OFF POWER at the Main Switch and remember the supply to Main switch will still be live

Which dimension of the cable is 6mm?

The cables that lead to and from the cooker switch are 6mm red and same for black,they are a lot thicker than the cable that's in my sockets ,I always thought a cooker had to be on it's own fuse,but my house was built around 1999 and that's the way it's been since....cooker and upstairs sockets on the same fuse seem strange to me
 
The problem is what will happen if the 32A MCB trips. As long as you protect the cable to a level where the cable will not be damaged from an overload i.e. 32A then as far as the installation goes the only problem is loss of supply when the 32A MCB trips.

If you were using a normal hob this would only be an inconvenience. However with an induction hob loss of cooling fans may be a problem. So down to nitty gritty is the question are you prepared to take the chance that if the supply trips the induction hob may over heat and be damaged? Personally I think it is unlikely but still that's the real question.

Yes it will break rules but they are to protect you from the inconvenience and expense should the supply trip and stop electricians from doing work which could cause you a problem. But as long as you protect the cable as required. i.e. don't change the MCB. Then there is no real danger only a cost in failed induction hob and inconvenience.

Now I stand back and get the flack. But to my mind we have to do a risk assessment and that to my mind is the risk you are taking if you don't follow the regulations.
 
I wasn't going to plug it in I was wondering if the spare socket would be able to power it by a spur type connection :oops: i Should have made it a bit clearer
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A spur must terminate in something like a fused spur (max 13A fuse) or a 13A socket.
You will probably need a new circuit for your hob. What is the power rating of the hob and the cooker please?
 
Thanks for all the advise.I've had a sparky out as it was over my head ,all have their own fuses now .job done good too
 

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