Amps rating of switches

[hard-work]

So Hardwork, will the switch be changed?

We can convince ourselves it may be ok, that it might be within limits, or change it for something more substantial.

I will be seeing the hob in the next few days, get the model number and see if it a 13A job. I will let the thread know.

 

[hard-work]

If it were me, and I assume most users, I would switch off each ring before opening the switch, then breaking the max current does not arise. Don't know whether you can design on that basis though.

I have seen the hob isolator switch right next to the hob, which I consider wrong. It should be preferably in an adjacent cupboard. The reason why is that I have seen people use the isolator as the prime on-off switch. If the hob or fingers are greasy it can be difficult to switch off the hob, so they just use the adjacent wall switch each time. That means the switch will be arcing if say three or four rings are on when the wall isolator is pushed breaking the contacts. The switch is being used many times a day. An isolator is a switch for maintenance or emergency only - only being used occasionally. It is not a control switch.

 

[JohnW2]

...An isolator is a switch for maintenance or emergency only - only being used occasionally. It is not a control switch.

An isolator (for maintenance) is not actually required but, if one has one, it could be anywhere (ideally reasonably close to the appliance). An emergency switch, again not required, needs to be easily accessible - hence ideally not in a cupboard where it could potentially be behind any amount of baked beans and cornflakes. In my opinion, although such a switch needs to be 'easily accessible' is is best not to put it too close to the appliance (particularly not 'behind it') - since it would not be safe to have to reach over the appliance to operate it in some 'emergency' situations (e.g. if casing of appliance has become 'live', or has flames coming out of it).

Having said that, there are situations in which a (fairly frequently used) 'control switch' behind the appliance may be required - e.g. if children or confused etc. people can reach the appliance's controls but could not reach the external control switch.

Kind Regards, John

 

[EFLImpudence]

I have said before:

Whilst, obviously, switches can be designed to carry whatever ampreage is required - BUT -

all of them seem to have contacts that are just two 'pimples' (never know the right word) which result in a very small area - two points almost - making and breaking the current.

 

[JohnW2]

I have said before: .... Whilst, obviously, switches can be designed to carry whatever ampreage is required - BUT - ... all of them seem to have contacts that are just two 'pimples' (never know the right word) which result in a very small area - two points almost - making and breaking the current.

Indeed, but I can but presume that switches designed to have different current ratings differ in relation to the size and/or shape and/or material and/or whatever of those 'pimples'.

Kind Regards, John

 

[hard-work]

The induction hob is a Bosch Schott Ceran 9000324865. I can't find any manual online.