Anyone recognise this rawl plug, sent with vertical rad?

Use the method I've suggested it works ! No messing about just make sure you use brown plugs , hammer them well in using the screw....then fit another plug in the same hole ( sometimes I've even used three plugs ).......don't use your drill on hammer when drilling in to the blocks it will make the holes too big !

 

Do this but with fischer duo power plugs.

 

This is what I do too, never any problems.

 

With our walls you need to undersize the drill bit (5mm for 6mm hole etc).

Hammer drills can quite easily smash the hole bigger than required.

 

http://www.wallanka.com/

 

No they're too big a diameter with too thick a body material for this so the screw can drop a little because it's not tight enough
Using screws in brown plugs it's tight they don't drop at all.

The duo plugs are great though I use them if I'm hanging a boiler straight on to breeze walls 10mm ones and coach bolts work great .

 

They look an excellent bit of kit!.

 

Looks can be deceiving ! The original poster tried them and didn't have much sucess ( someone mentioned them earlier in the thread ).

 

I've found these pretty good for moderate loads. Available in metal or nylon.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-self-drill-plasterboard-fixings-metal-35mm-100-pack/47347

 

some of those rads are really heavy , even without water.
rawlplugs rarely do the job when a plasterboard is bonded to the wall and hollow behind. the weight of the rad will force the bracket diagonally into the board. that’s why i use sleeve anchors.
the sleeve stops flush with the board stopping the bracket pulling in whatever happens.

 

After trying again with the corefix plugs and a smaller 8mm drill, I've totally given up and instead will put wooden battens in and cover with plasterboard. I'm planning to attach the batten with sleeve anchors and then screwdown the plasterboard and finally use a strong timber screw for the brackets

 

I use them and it's a matter of correct usage. They work well for me and I met the guy that invented them at a tool show.

 

In the end this is how I resolved the issue.

I attached a batten cut from some C24 4x2 that I had and secured it using 3 85mm/M6 Rawlbolts. I had to upsize the washer as the ones supplied with the bolts barely cover the 12mm opening. I have a 15mm recess left, which I will refill with 12.5mm plasterboard and a 2.5mm skim of easi-fill. The radiator brackets will then screw into the timber batten. I haven't carried out any scientific load testing but the batten is solid as a rock now.

I hope anyone reading this in the future finds this method useful in case they have the same issue.