Appropriate window lintel solution?
- Thread starter dishman
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You had this done yet?
The builder is talking sense when he says a cavity lintel would be more rigid. An angle iron/l shaped lintel will require propping during installation as it has potential to rotate/twist during installation. If you don't want a cavity option then I would suggest a C shaped lintel. Keystone Lintels call then SL/K. Stronger lintel. What I would stress is though is that if the masonry above has signs of cracking, the lintel could be subject to impact loading if brickwork drops. What size openings do you have?
The builder is talking sense when he says a cavity lintel would be more rigid. An angle iron/l shaped lintel will require propping during installation as it has potential to rotate/twist during installation. If you don't want a cavity option then I would suggest a C shaped lintel. Keystone Lintels call then SL/K. Stronger lintel. What I would stress is though is that if the masonry above has signs of cracking, the lintel could be subject to impact loading if brickwork drops. What size openings do you have?
@siwriderby
Nope, I put it on the back burner for a bit as it was frustrating me.
Got back on it today. Rang another builder who said right off the bat that the job was too small for him in the current climate. He also said that he would have installed an "angle iron". He said that he thought that this would be fine for the job as it was much thicker than a lintel (catnic or otherwise) therefore he did not see an issue with it being able to take the load.
When I mentioned the coating/issues with rust, he said that it was preferable to get one coated but it should not have rust issues if installed well.
More head banging ensues.
It seems that;
I can either pay what seems over the odds for a proper lintel.
Or give in and let the upvc company and their builder just put in an "angle iron".
Nope, I put it on the back burner for a bit as it was frustrating me.
Got back on it today. Rang another builder who said right off the bat that the job was too small for him in the current climate. He also said that he would have installed an "angle iron". He said that he thought that this would be fine for the job as it was much thicker than a lintel (catnic or otherwise) therefore he did not see an issue with it being able to take the load.
When I mentioned the coating/issues with rust, he said that it was preferable to get one coated but it should not have rust issues if installed well.
More head banging ensues.
It seems that;
I can either pay what seems over the odds for a proper lintel.
Or give in and let the upvc company and their builder just put in an "angle iron".
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It sure if this helps but I just took the front Windows out of my 1960s bungalow and the front course of blocks has no lintel. I mention this because the house has been fine for over fifty years without a front lintel. Maybe the original window company weren't being unreasonable. I suspect angle iron is a catch all phrase; much like people use the name catnic to describe a style of lintel but like the old Hoover the actual brand may be different.
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Not a problem with timber windows, it's when you change for plastic the trouble can start.
Yes, in my case the existing windows were timber, but acted as part of the structure i.e strong enough to act as a lintel. As per @stuart45, upvc is not designed to be structural in any way re-enforced or not. So removing the structural timber windows and replacing with UPVC without adding a lintel is when problems will start, although it may take a few years to become apparent.
Hence, ensuring a correct lintel is specified.
Nearly every builder (bar one, who was very expensive) I have spoken to and every UPVC company I have spoken to have specified an angle iron (specifically meaning an angle iron and not a "catch-all" for lintel). The response being that it is a good enough solution for nearly all the work they have ever done and anything more is overkill.
It seems that this is the de-facto choice, unless you question it.....like I have. I even checked with a local architect who said while an angle iron would "do the job", it was certainly not the best nor most appropriate solution, in his view.
It seems that the window companies do not like using proper lintels for what ever reason, (extra cost which makes the sale less attractive? time?). Trying to get a builder to just install a proper lintel is also difficult as it seems, for most, the job is too small in the current climate.
Hence, ensuring a correct lintel is specified.
Nearly every builder (bar one, who was very expensive) I have spoken to and every UPVC company I have spoken to have specified an angle iron (specifically meaning an angle iron and not a "catch-all" for lintel). The response being that it is a good enough solution for nearly all the work they have ever done and anything more is overkill.
It seems that this is the de-facto choice, unless you question it.....like I have. I even checked with a local architect who said while an angle iron would "do the job", it was certainly not the best nor most appropriate solution, in his view.
It seems that the window companies do not like using proper lintels for what ever reason, (extra cost which makes the sale less attractive? time?). Trying to get a builder to just install a proper lintel is also difficult as it seems, for most, the job is too small in the current climate.
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@^woody^
Or anyone else for that matter:
In terms of fitting a lintel, when bottom of the soldier course ends half way down or is not level with the mortar joint of the normal brickwork, how is the lintel usually slotted in? Can this only be done at the same time the window is removed?
View media item 99771View media item 99777
A single leaf lintel is probably the easiest solution.
https://catnic.com/products/ang
I was wondering, with a lintel that spans the cavity, is it normally quite easy to slot it under the interior timber lintel?
https://catnic.com/products/cg70-100
The downstairs room has nice coving, is it impossible to fit a cavity lintel without damaging the interior?
After looking at the prices of proper lintels, they are much cheaper than I imagined, I therefore am surprised that the "angle iron" is what is suggested by nearly all builders and window companies I have spoken to. It is not like a proper lintel adds that much to the cost! Why not specify the best solution in the first place!
Now I have more information, I am quite happy to start telling the builders specifically what I want.
Or anyone else for that matter:
In terms of fitting a lintel, when bottom of the soldier course ends half way down or is not level with the mortar joint of the normal brickwork, how is the lintel usually slotted in? Can this only be done at the same time the window is removed?
View media item 99771View media item 99777
A single leaf lintel is probably the easiest solution.
https://catnic.com/products/ang
I was wondering, with a lintel that spans the cavity, is it normally quite easy to slot it under the interior timber lintel?
https://catnic.com/products/cg70-100
The downstairs room has nice coving, is it impossible to fit a cavity lintel without damaging the interior?
After looking at the prices of proper lintels, they are much cheaper than I imagined, I therefore am surprised that the "angle iron" is what is suggested by nearly all builders and window companies I have spoken to. It is not like a proper lintel adds that much to the cost! Why not specify the best solution in the first place!
Now I have more information, I am quite happy to start telling the builders specifically what I want.
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